- This topic has 44 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 5 years ago by robwaade.
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February 23, 2017 at 12:13 am #49003
anyone creating a vpx version it would be fun to see one
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February 26, 2017 at 10:40 am #49268I’d like to see it too, love the DE art work but I don’t know of anyone actively working on it or interested in it currently……though I could always be wrong.
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February 26, 2017 at 12:25 pm #49270finally a response i thought i posted a lame idea thanks dark yeah artwork is awesome i have the real machine its fun to play and the rom sounds arent bad either hopefully someone will create a new version
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February 26, 2017 at 12:39 pm #49272If you starting posting scans from your machine, I bet you will see some interested table designers in no time.
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February 26, 2017 at 12:43 pm #49273never done that is there a good way to do it with phone  camera
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February 26, 2017 at 12:45 pm #49274I don’t know much about it… I’m sure one of the scanning gurus will jump in here and give you some help though.
I’m pretty sure they will suggest you borrow someone’s nice camera for it… but we will see.
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February 26, 2017 at 12:48 pm #49275thanks alot im  willing to help out in anyway thanks for idea
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February 26, 2017 at 1:11 pm #49276The best way to do it is to remove plastics, clean them and use a flatbed scanner to scan them. Â Not every one has a flatbed scanner however so what you could do instead is just put the plastic on a white piece of paper, or a light grey I think might actually would work best (white creates some glare) and center the plastic in the piece of paper and set up your camera directly above the plastic.
What you really want to try to avoid is adding any kind of perspective to the shot, so some tips:
-Try to keep the subject (plastic) in the center of the frame/shot
-Set up lights above but not directly above, set them to the left and right of the subject to avoid glare showing up in photo (this can be tricky)
-Try to have the graphics fill as much of the frame as possible while leaving some border.
For consistent color and exposure try not to use camera flash but rather set up those ambient lights on the left and right to light the plastic nicely without under/over exposing it and without any glare marks.
You should have mentioned that you owned the table and could provide resources, it would of made the thread more appealing to authors. Â If I remember correctly this table has a bunch of ramp decals as well, they can be really tricky to apply to 3D ramps if the resources are bad.
If you aren’t willing to remove plastics from the table then that could make things a lot more difficult……but still do-able.
Here’s an example of a ramp decal photo from randr that is pretty much perfect:
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February 26, 2017 at 1:17 pm #49280Hey Dark, what’s the best way to go about the playfield scan?
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February 26, 2017 at 9:10 pm #49301hey dark i will try to get to it asap thanks for all your detail in explaining it its like the detail you put into your artwork awesome and thanks to drybonz also for helping figure it out just have to figure out playfield
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February 27, 2017 at 7:47 am #49309Hey Dark, what’s the best way to go about the playfield scan?
Have a bare, disassembled PF and put it on a massive flatbed scanner. Â Sadly those variables don’t usually add up, so more than likely you’d have to scan the PF in sections and stitch it together.
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February 27, 2017 at 10:13 am #49311Yeah, the guys that do playfield “scans” as they call it, do multiple pics and stitch them together in photoshop… just wondered if there was a preferred technique, in case robwaade wanted to do this.
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February 27, 2017 at 11:15 am #49312The two playfield scans I’ve done, and yes they were scans not “pics” , were done with an HP 4760 scanner that is designed to lay on top of whatever you are scanning and do it’s thing. It is see through so you can see the area it will be scanning. The drawback of it is that it only scans a bit larger than letter size so there are many scans that do get stitched together into one really big image file. Â To make the stitching as easy as possible for the software (Photoshop and MS ICE both do auto-stitching) to do it’s thing I measured and clamped a board parallel to the edge of the playfield that I used as a straight edge for the scanner to run along, then I believe I did 5 overlapping scans the length of the playfield. Â I then moved my guide board over and scanned a column again, and then a 3rd time for a total of 15 scans. Â The stitched together image scanning at 300dpi is somewhat huge (Golden Arrow png file is 131MB, bmp scans and initial stitch are a bit larger), but has all the detail you could want :) and is as close to correctly proportioned/sized as you can get without scanning it in as one big piece and I’m not sure that it would be significantly different.
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February 27, 2017 at 11:59 am #49313I think resource gathering would make a good write-up for the site’s tutorial section.
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February 27, 2017 at 12:25 pm #49314The SlamT1lt version in Future Pinball has some decent resources imho. Maybe he will give permission to use some of these resources for a vpx version.
I modified this table recently to support DOFLinx:
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February 27, 2017 at 1:00 pm #49315sounds complex on playfield
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February 27, 2017 at 1:05 pm #49316slam tilt looks pretty good detail and accurate as far as layout and artwork  go not home to look at playfieldÂ
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February 27, 2017 at 3:50 pm #49358@robwaade, I’ll happily stitch up the scans for you if you end up doing them.
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February 27, 2017 at 5:10 pm #49360thanks bord i will try to figure it out its a new thing to learn how to do
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February 27, 2017 at 5:42 pm #49365The most time consuming part is actually removing everything from the top of your playfield and putting back on again, big part of why I’ve only done 2 of the 6 (? really ?) machines I own.
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