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Hi guys, I’m at it again sorry.
I’m working on another drunken idea, where I have the bass LEDs in my PMD amps trigger LEDs behind the playfield.
So my question to the electronic geniuses that we have here…. Could the power that lights an LED in a 12v mini-amp, be used to trigger a fast acting relay of some kind, so that the relay can supply greater power to a more powerful set of LEDs on a light bar?
Hic! … Burp! …excuse me ;)
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Ok here’s a pretty crappy video to give you an idea of the trigger LED’s reaction to Dr Dude and the AFM mechanicals.
Keep an eye open for the AFM saucer at the 2:55 mark.
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Hi guys, I’m at it again sorry. I’m working on another drunken idea, where I have the bass LEDs in my PMD amps trigger LEDs behind the playfield. So my question to the electronic geniuses that we have here…. Could the power that lights an LED in a 12v mini-amp, be used to trigger a fast acting relay of some kind, so that the relay can supply greater power to a more powerful set of LEDs on a light bar? Hic! … Burp! …excuse me ;)
thats what a relay does(trigger higher voltage) so yes would work but if led’s are 12v then no need for a relay at all or did i not read this correctly?
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I don’t think there would be a lot of current going to the single blue led on the amp. So that’s why I’m thinking of using the blue light just as a trigger and powering the led independently.
The amps is doing nothing but the brain work then and sorting out the levels when to fire.
My main concern is whether the relay would react fast enough?
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OK I’ve experimented more with this and have removed the LED from the amp and connected the feed to a white LED array stolen from a torch.
I placed this up next the backglass and played a number of tables to see how it looks during game play…. Well, it looks pretty good! Good enough to move on to the next experimental stage I think, so I have ordered two fast acting relay boards with both low and high trigger inputs.
The plan is to make a light bar with 4 domes. Â One amp will feed the two inner LEDs while the other the two outer. Because the two amps react a little different (different bass volumes set), this should create the illusion that the LEDs are smarter than they really are, as sometimes they will appear to make outward movement, other times inward and of course will also be on in individually groups, or all on or all off at times.
Here’s a little AFM saucer PMD-LED to give you an idea of how well it syncs to the major “bumps & booms”…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUiEBw01Fv0
btw… what light domes do people like to use in their LED bars?
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This is what everyone uses for the most part over their rgb leds…
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This is what everyone uses for the most part over their rgb leds…
Thanks randr, not a big fan of the tabs on that one, but it will most likely be the way I go. I might put a cover piece over the top and have them protrude through holes for a perfectly clean look.
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yeah thats what everyone does. Mount through a hole you wont see tabs
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My son just ordered a new 3D printer, I might even try printing some “tabless” LED domes with some translucent PLA.
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You could switch the  leds through a mosfet on each output.  You just need to figure out if it’s the + or – side of the led output that is being switched on and off.
I know so little about everything that I could tell you all there is to know about nothing
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