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So I just got my order of 12v solenoids from Hong Kong and let’s just say I am less than impressed with their size. Luckily they were only $2.50 each and if I ever make a smaller machine I could certainly use them in that build.
To make sure this doesn’t happen again, I’m curious if others who like their solenoids could post a link to where they purchased them from. Thanks in advance!
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Wow!!! Those are small.
I use contractors for flippers, slings and bumpers(10) but real pinball knocker, shaker and chime solenoids so I’m no help. But wow!!!! Those are small
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unfortunately I don’t have the exact link anymore as ebay doesn’t keep it that far back, but the ones I have are like these:
my middle 3 of the ’10’ dof setup is these the others are real pinball mechs.
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Randr, I remember watching your YouTube cab tour and seeing those contractors. Looking online I was a bit overwhelmed with my options.
Do you have a URL reference to the contractors that you used? I’ll probably end up running solenoids in this build from a cost standpoint but for my next build I’d love to go top shelf with all of my feedbacks.You need to login in order to like this post: click here
I’ve gone the Zeb route. I know a bit about computers but hate the idea of bothering it with electricity :)
Ford solenoids is used in his kits. Made to withstand … doomsday ?
No complaints about the quality. Do I love that each sol sounds the same ? No I don’t. That’s is why I love my 7.1 setup extra much.
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I use similar small 12v solenoids like Borg for all my setup. I have considered putting in contactors since, but i don’t want to have to change over to another  24v power supply to run them. I already have a 12v and a 5v serparate power supply in the cab
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Circling back to this after checking out @randr’s setup last weekend. The Siemens contactors that seem most popular with people’s builds are in high demand on eBay. I’m curious if people smarter than me from the standpoint of wiring and DOF integration would know if these would be a sufficient alternative. The 30/40 amp seems like it would cause problems, especially when the more widely used I believe are just 12.
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I have extras I’m never going to use if you want? I’ll look up what I paid for them but I think they were like 10 bucks each
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I have extras I’m never going to use if you want? I’ll look up what I paid for them but I think they were like 10 bucks each
Absolutely! I’ll PM you.
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Definately go the contactor route!  I did a ford style solenoid and they didn’t last long.  I had a couple of conversations with Mr Rand R and I was convinced.  Been running them for a while now.  Look nicer don’t warm up much from holding flippers etc.
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There is a less-used alternative that I really like. Actual flipper coils/assemblies. If you watch ebay you can find a pair for $30/$40. These have EOS switches so you don’t have the overheating issue, plus they feel/sound like the real deal (because they are). I have a set of early 80s Gottliebs in my setup and love them. I also use actual slingshot and bumper mechs.
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Real coils are best for sure. Like the chime unit and the knocker but for pop bumpers and flippers I just went with the 10 contractors.Â
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I went with the same idea all real pinball parts probably because I already had them (I’m glad I did)…Plus I added more…..
https://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=39093#entry393762You need to login in order to like this post: click here
There is a less-used alternative that I really like. Actual flipper coils/assemblies. If you watch ebay you can find a pair for $30/$40. These have EOS switches so you don’t have the overheating issue, plus they feel/sound like the real deal (because they are). I have a set of early 80s Gottliebs in my setup and love them. I also use actual slingshot and bumper mechs.
@Bord that was definitely my original thought, but I wasn’t quite sure how you would power the 50v coils while at the same time sending a signal to the board without frying it. Originally I had thought about a EOS switch solution like those found in most games that have flipper controlled lane changes. I decided against that as I figured there would be a slight delay between hitting the button and the plunger triggering the 5v relay. The next time you have your cab open I would love to see a picture of your wiring.You need to login in order to like this post: click here
I went with the same idea all real pinball parts probably because I already had them (I’m glad I did)…Plus I added more…..
https://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=39093#entry393762
@outthere Definitely diggin’ your build. Same question as I had for Bord. How did you power your coils while still sending the necessary relay to DOF?
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There is a less-used alternative that I really like. Actual flipper coils/assemblies. If you watch ebay you can find a pair for $30/$40. These have EOS switches so you don’t have the overheating issue, plus they feel/sound like the real deal (because they are). I have a set of early 80s Gottliebs in my setup and love them. I also use actual slingshot and bumper mechs.
@bord that was definitely my original thought, but I wasn’t quite sure how you would power the 50v coils while at the same time sending a signal to the board without frying it. Originally I had thought about a EOS switch solution like those found in most games that have flipper controlled lane changes. I decided against that as I figured there would be a slight delay between hitting the button and the plunger triggering the 5v relay. The next time you have your cab open I would love to see a picture of your wiring.
Early 80s Gottliebs ran 25V coils, I run mine off a 24V power supply in my vp cab, works great. The only thing the eos is used for is the flipper mech switching to hold coil, VP wouldn’t have anything to do with that nor would it have any effect on lane changes.
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I am using the original power supply (43 volt) that came with the pinball to power the solenoids….
I used solid state relays because I did not know about booster boards at the time…coils pull up to 6 amp’s
I use a LEDwiz for the DOF which turns the relays on and off And the relay turns the solenoids on and off…
(12 volt) power supply for the LEDwiz and relays…
The ground is hooked to the LED wiz, Then a port is hooked to the Negative side of the relay And the positive go’s straight to the relays…It sounds like a lot is going But when the item in the game is triggered the solenoid turns on instantly…..
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@outhere @BorgDog Thanks for the clarification. Definitely something to consider moving forward.
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There is a less-used alternative that I really like. Actual flipper coils/assemblies. If you watch ebay you can find a pair for $30/$40. These have EOS switches so you don’t have the overheating issue, plus they feel/sound like the real deal (because they are). I have a set of early 80s Gottliebs in my setup and love them. I also use actual slingshot and bumper mechs.
@bord that was definitely my original thought, but I wasn’t quite sure how you would power the 50v coils while at the same time sending a signal to the board without frying it. Originally I had thought about a EOS switch solution like those found in most games that have flipper controlled lane changes. I decided against that as I figured there would be a slight delay between hitting the button and the plunger triggering the 5v relay. The next time you have your cab open I would love to see a picture of your wiring.
With the Pinscape controller you don’t send the 50v (or whatever) through the board. The controller switches all the neutrals and your hots are wired across all coils of the same voltage. In my case they are all 25v coils being run by a 24v power supply. I’ve been troubleshooting some Pinscape problems so my setup is a mess but if you need to see anything specific let me know.
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I use the Ford starter motor solenoids in my virtual table. Only one has gone defective – but that was due to a bad protection diode, not the solenoid. Mounted to the cross braces as shown in the picture makes them really LOUD when mounted inside the cab. I have them working with Visual Pinball 10 and Pinball FX 3. Getting DOF & DOFLinx setup and working did cause some brain bleeds, but it sure does add realism to the games.
On a side note – once they were working as pictured on the floor, I mounted them in the cab from underneath. While under there I had the keyboard ready to load a table. When the table initialized, it fired all 10 solenoids simultaneously – my head hit every surface inside the machine.
I like the black ones better than the red ones because they are louder. You can find them on Amazon or Ebay for $10 each.
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