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Removed my playfield monitor from the case and cut some side rails to mount it.
Down one side, there are 4-5 mounting points. This was the bottom where the speakers were. It’s pretty solidly mounted. There aren’t similar mounting holes down the other side, just in the corners. I think i may use some mounting tape to really secure that side, though once it’s in the cabinet I don’t think it will matter.
Here’s what I’m thinking of doing for a “hinge.” I’ve got a couple of these pvc pipe end caps. If I screw them to the inside of the cabinet and notch out my side rails, I should have a simple way to raise and lower the playfield. Best of all, they’re free because I already have them. ??
Now I can build the cabinet to fit the monitor width with the side rails.
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Made some sawdust today.
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A few more parts arrived today. Some light up buttons from https://www.diyretroarcade.com
The rectangular one will be my launch button. Also got my KL25Z for pinscape.
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I forget if you’ve mentioned adding a real plunger at some point…and you should, right now. And a tilt bob. These are inexpensive and make a cab feel real. If not, when placing your button, perhaps place it where a real plunger can fit in above/below it later. And if a real plunger might be added at some point, be mindful of the PF monitor placement. I have a feeling you’re well aware of all this, but thought I’d toss this out there for any that might be reading that are starting a budget build.
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Good points. A real plunger and tilt bob are on the optional upgrade list in the budget.
But I do know I’m going to want a real plunger. If that puts me over budget, then it’ll just be considered my first upgrade.
I’ll be sure to leave room for it when mounting the monitor and other buttons.
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Not much build progress to report, I’m hampered by some shipping delays.
But I got these 3″ speakers on ebay for $11. Just need to find or make some cheap grills for them.
And I made some labels for my buttons.
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Here’s a very basic box for the backglass monitor with a simple mounting system.
Right now everything is held together with a few pocket screws. I’ll glue it up and add bracing once I’ve got everything fitted.
I’m still on the fence about adding a monitor for dmd at this stage. I have a spare lcd, it’ll have to be in portrait orientation to fit between the speakers. I haven’t tried that yet, but seems doable. I’ll have to modify this box a little to mount the third monitor. I guess I need to get all three monitors hooked up and just make sure the video card will manage it all first.
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My simple mounting system had some significant issues.
When I started adding in the LCD for the DMD it became clear that the mounting system was pulling the top box out of square.
I spent the last couple days redoing it and incorporating the DMD LCD panel.
It’s starting to look like a pinball cabinet!
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Looking nice. Ahhh….re-doing things. That’s part of the fun! I was far along with my 2-screen cab build..when …I realized I had to tear it apart and add a 3rd screen. Fun times.
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Yeah, I was on the fence about the 3rd screen. But I had it just sitting around, so I decided why not?
I’m eventually going to add led strips along the playfield (not as part of the $500 budget though). I realized today that I need to route channels for those before I glue and screw everything together for the last time. I’m still a ways from that, but glad I realized it now.
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This is absolutely awesome. I am about to embark on a similar budget-ish build…but going with a table top style. Please keep us updated!
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Looks great so far!
The way you have set up the back box you could easily replace the to monitors with one 32″ in portrait position. This would enable you to have a DMD and a 1:1 backglas that is not squeezed. I would at least think about it while doing the wood work. Make sure you can replace them later as an upgrade! Only problem are the speakers!
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Looks great so far!
The way you have set up the back box you could easily replace the to monitors with one 32″ in portrait position. This would enable you to have a DMD and a 1:1 backglas that is not squeezed. I would at least think about it while doing the wood work. Make sure you can replace them later as an upgrade! Only problem are the speakers!
I saw another user (BorgDog) do a cool Star Wars wedge head like that. It was definitely an inspiration for my cabinet design.
The only thing I didn’t like about that approach was that the back glass monitor has to be a little narrower than the playfield. It works really well for the wedge head style, but wasn’t what I wanted.
And since mine is a budget build, I wanted to use what I had on hand already. And I had these two old computer monitors just sitting around.
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This is absolutely awesome. I am about to embark on a similar budget-ish build…but going with a table top style. Please keep us updated!
Thanks!
Build progress has hit a snag. Even though it’s (probably) not going to fit within the $500 budget, I know I’m going to want a real plunger very soon.
So I’m struggling with the typical dilemma of tv and plunger needing to occupy the same space. I know where I want the plunger to go and it clears the monitor, but I *think* that’ll mean I have to move my playfield supports.
I also didn’t give myself very much room to mount my flipper buttons. I left about 3 inches between the playfield monitor and the front panel of the cab. Things are really tight and I wish I’d given myself about an inch more breathing room. I’m not 100% happy with where the flipper buttons are ending up.
So I’m spending time experimenting with minor tweaks to monitor placement, flipper buttons, and my imaginary plunger, to see if I have any other options.
None of that makes for very good pictures, but I want to work it all out before I drill any holes in the cab.
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Ok, I think I have my playfield mounting system worked out. I attached wood rails to the TV, attached a cross brace to keep things stable and am supporting the whole thing from underneath with a couple blocks of wood.
I notched out some “hinges” in the rails so i can lift the playfield. Initially I’d imagined the notches resting right on their supports so I could remove the glass and lift the playfield immediately. In reality, because of where the fulcrum point for the “hinge” is, I would have had to leave several inches of clearance in the back to keep the playfield from hitting the dmd lcd. So instead, I just slide the playfield forward until it drops onto the hinges and then lift.
You can also see how little space I gave myself in front of the playfield monitor. That means I can’t put my flipper buttons exactly where I want them. But a little compromise is inevitable. I’m intentionally trying to make this compact to save floor space. Still, I wish I’d given myself one more inch of space.
BTW, you may recall that initially I was going to use a PVC pipe end cap for the hinge. It’s end was domed and I worried that wouldn’t sit flush with the side of the table which would cause it to get stressed and eventually crack. So I just cut some circles out of a scrap 2×4 with a hole saw instead.
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Quick budget update. I ordered my glass today and it came in $10 under budget ($30 for 1/4″ tempered glass, 22.25″ x 35.5″). Woot!
And I pretty much immediately threw that savings away on the aluminum for my side rails.
I’ve been looking for some offset aluminum angle with one leg 3/4″ and the other leg between 1-1.5″ Couldn’t find it anywhere for any amount of $$$. Finally found some on ebay today, 3/4×1.25. Score!
Unfortunately it was $12 over budget, but I think it’ll be worth it. I was going to use 3/4 x 3/4, but I think this will look more like actual rails and less like something I got at the hardware store. The listing includes 3 pieces and I’ll only use 2. If only I had a non-pinball use for that 3rd piece I could justify splitting the cost… hmm…. ?
But I’m doing really well on my budget overall anyway. So long as I don’t have any big unexpected miscellaneous costs, I’m going to be able to afford a few of my extra items.
Here’s the actual budget if anyone wants to see it.
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Lots of progress to report. I cut the back glass surround from some scrap 1/4″ luan ply I had, made my playfield backstop, started shaping my “lock down bar,” tried out my speaker grills, and decided where I’m putting my flipper buttons.
I’m particularly pleased with these speaker grills. I couldn’t find anything affordable for these 3″ speakers that wouldn’t take months to get here on a slow boat from China. Then I found this perforated craft metal in my wife’s stash. It’s perfect. And not only because it’s free (to me anyway). I made a sort of sandwich with the front BG surround, the metal in the middle, and a square of more 1/4″ luan plywood on the back.
Right now it’s all held together with tape. I can’t finish the back glass surround until I get my play field glass, so I can cut the surround to fit.
Attachments:
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Looking for some input on my side art. I want to do something with tape and stencils that has that old school wedge head sort of feel.
Robot hand or spaceship? Blue/white or orange/red?
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spaceship, orange,red.
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Yep what Thalamus said ^^^, orange/red no contest.
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