- This topic has 15 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 3 years, 8 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
Hey guys,
I just bought some of the addressable LED strips. I am planning on doing the sides of the PF and the matrix in the back. I bought the stuff that is a black strip, but all of the silkscreened (or whatever it is) text is white and the actual LED squares are white as well. I’m thinking that I can 3D print a black cover that fits over the square and only shows the circular point that is the LED. I threw together a quick prototype model in Fusion 360 and printed out a part. It seems to work OK. I have a few more ideas on that front, but I also think that I could create the same thing for the Matrix in the back I thin that the effect could be pretty cool….
Attached are the model and the actual printed prototype. This also will help keep the strip flatter. I would have to do it in multiple prints due to the size…
(well if I get my 20″x20″ printer back running, I could maybe do some of these in one shot….
It does definitely improve the look though from my initial test.
Attachments:
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
OK so here is how it looks in the cab while I have AFM running…
On this little strip, it makes a huge difference… Depending on the type of plastic I use, I might be able to also print a very thin .1 mm cover over the round part as well… using black PETG, it might be translucent enough that you get a great effect only when the LED is lit. I’ll have to do an A/B comparison once I figure out how this whole Teensy thing works…
Attachments:
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
Very cool! I always was going to just put a layer of thin plastic(smoked) over leds on sides but never have. I like your printed idea very clever.
********************************************************
Messing with the VPinball app and push notifications.
So if you haven't downloaded app yet what are you waiting for!?
for IOS and Android********************************************************
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
Very cool! I always was going to just put a layer of thin plastic(smoked) over leds on sides but never have. I like your printed idea very clever.
********************************************************
Messing with the VPinball app and push notifications.
So if you haven't downloaded app yet what are you waiting for!?
for IOS and Android********************************************************
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
I’ve noticed that too. The “black” LED strips are more white than black.
I routered out the sides of my cabinet and the “black” LED strips recess in far enough that I can put a piece of smoked plexi in front of it and still be flush with the inside of the cabinet. Unfortunately, I haven’t gotten far enough in my build yet to cut the plexi and see how it does for hiding the LEDs themselves. I have a sheet of 3M privacy film, but I am hoping that the recess into the side of the cabinet will suffice for hiding the strips and preventing some of the reflection on to the playfield. Then I can save the 3M film for the LED matrix and DMD.
Your 3D printed covers are a cool way to hide the white LEDs and lettering and has to be cheaper than the 3M film or sheet of plexi.
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
This is a neat idea. I might now consider putting up some myself.
 
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
VERY Nice!
If you can make these “Lock” together and also have a hole for screws on the ends…you could use these as a mount as well…Â I’d consider buying some of those if available!
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
I was thinking about how to lock them together…
Was thinking of designing a channel that goes under the strip that has 1 to 2mm walls on each side to hold the top together…. It could have screw holes periodically for mounting. It should be good enough for a friction fit but could be secured with a little adhesive depending on the setup (lots of vibration in a DOF+SSF cab). Using the channel underneath, you could butt together multiple lengths. Now this would be for the strips that go on the sides of the pf…
Creating one for the matrix would be a bit different.
I don’t know about you guys, but the guys that I bought my strips from (bought several 1M packages), solder together the strips every 72 less which makes a difference in the gap 2-4mm so need to be able to account for that.
Tomorrow at work (I keep my 3d printers there), I will try a few more experiments.
Terry- If I can figure out something decent, you would get it for free…. appreciation for the videos help etc.
Also, I will make the design (.stl) files available for those who want to print or experiment themselves.
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
Oh and on another note, I still haven’t plugged in the LEDs so we will have to see how that looks….
I have room on each side of my PF to have the LEDs laying flat facing up. I know some have theirs mounted to the side of the cabinet.
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
Good point. Hook the suckers up and let’s see a video :)
********************************************************
Messing with the VPinball app and push notifications.
So if you haven't downloaded app yet what are you waiting for!?
for IOS and Android********************************************************
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
Hey is there a program that you can run that will use the Teensy to control a strip to test it out? I haven’t loaded DOF on my Cab’s PC, but I have the firmware loaded on the teensy and have it wired to a test strip with a power supply, but was looking for something simple to test the strip before I start delving into a DOF setup (plus doing it outside of the cabinet setup would be nicer at the moment…. was going to take some pictures of experiments with the 3d-printed enclosures for the strips. So far I have a prototype that is 1/8th of a strip… wanted to work out the kinks before printing longer pieces.
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
You would need to flash the teensy with any freely downloadable blinky sketch for teensy. Easy to do
********************************************************
Messing with the VPinball app and push notifications.
So if you haven't downloaded app yet what are you waiting for!?
for IOS and Android********************************************************
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
OK there is something Effed up in my wiring. I got a really thin CAT6 cable to do the test and I think that might be some of my problem.
Anywho….. I was able to get some lights going on it. This was very good for me to test. Man these suckers are BRIGHT!
One thing I measured was the temperature after leaving them on for about 6 minutes. I know this isn’t a normal case, but needed to see how hot it gets. 155 f. So PLA is not going to be a good plastic to use. I will have to print in PETG, which has some positives and negatives. I think I have some black PETG for the smaller printer (I sure hope so). So I will work on getting that dialed in. The 1/8th strip piece looks really good when things aren’t lit up though. Have a few pictures… at some point I will do some video maybe…. Need to get things moving along more first though.
Attachments:
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
Keep in mind the leds are never on long. Heat has never been a issue for me. I think you may be a bit over concerned.
i would not use cat 5 for the power lines  but I never use cat5 for anything other then network and power over cat5 for powering a access point
But glad you got lights going!
********************************************************
Messing with the VPinball app and push notifications.
So if you haven't downloaded app yet what are you waiting for!?
for IOS and Android********************************************************
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
Yeah they aren’t on long, but the PLA plastic starts to have problems at around 130 f. Since the playfield already heats things up when the glass is on, I need to use a plastic that won’t deform at low temp.
I use the cat 6 for the data line… I am injecting power with much thicker wire.
Lights aren’t really going yet. It is a fluke that some turned on. I need to figure out what in my wiring isn’t quite right.
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
I know this is an old thread. But did you ever build an .stl file for these covers? I would love to print some out.
Thanks
Mike
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
Forums are currently locked.
