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July 8, 2020 at 11:25 pm #190359
I’m finally changing the old CRT in my Williams Defender to a flatscreen. The screen has been on it’s last legs for like 20 years, it needs a rebuild. I have the old tube tv out, and the flatscreen in and mounted. I am using this converter to go from the 6 wire plug to the old monitor to the converter. So I’m swapping an Electrohome G07 monitor for a Goldfinger flatscreen. (My dad is an operator and gave me the flatscreen which was designed just for this, it’s not for a computer).
The only inputs on the monitor are HDMI, DVI, and VGA (I am using VGA).
I am using a GBS 8200 converter board.
Power to my board is a 5v 4a power supply (only 2a required, and I have also tried a second power supply, also 4a). The monitor is powered from the old CRT power wires.
That leaves me 6 wires to worry about.
Red to Red
Green to Green
Blue to Blue
Ground to Ground (I am 99.9% sure these are right!!)
VS to VS
HS to S (Signal?)
There is no HS connection on the board, only a blank space. The next space over is “S”, that’s why I have my HS connected there. I have also tried moving the connection from S to the empty space of HS, making it HS to HS.
Watch very closely at :20. This is what I get when I turn it on. Has anyone run into this before?
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July 8, 2020 at 11:33 pm #190364Here’s the GBS 8200 board I’m using.
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August 26, 2020 at 1:47 am #197960A couple of things you need to be made aware of in this and other Arcade cabs.
The old CRT screens, although functional and weighing a tons had a device on board called a LOPTi Line output transformer that handled the frame voltage and scatter magnets on the tube, all driven by a frame chip arrangemnet on the motherboard. A straight forward one to one swap isnt likely to produce a result your looking for. The frame looks like its falling out of sync by the way its collapsing off to one corner after bootup. This was a regular chip issue in CRT monitors and TV sets back in the dim and distant past.
Ive had a scout through on Youtube and there are a few people on there that have made this modification to their machines, Asteroids, Gorf, etc and suceeded with a modification setup. Usually the power supply board rund the logic and the screen input used to be like trying to make a VGA socket output drive a DVI plug, unless you know the Pin outs, the voltages, syncs etc all I can say is put on a blindfold.
Recommendation get the circuit diagram for the boards as they exist now and the controls etc, most systems today run on a 5V supply some of the older games had 12V.
Getting the V sync and Hsync to tally together is going to be a problem and there should be an interface available to do this but just posting a picture of a board doesnt provide the information needed.
As for the frame drop thats a definate chip issue. Sorry but its a case of scour “Youtube” and avoid the cat videos at all costs or itll take months. Search Repairing asteroids machine as a start.
Ill look up any info and post it here for you.
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August 26, 2020 at 8:07 am #197997I somewhat got it going. I consulted one of my dad’s friends who is an expert in the industry. It doesn’t flicker anymore, but it is dim. It may be a matter of adjustment now, but I haven’t worked on it anymore. I guess if it frustrates me too much I’ll find an old tv and throw it in. :)
It’s funny, when I was an operator I always shyed away from tv repair. Now I don’t know what I was so afraid of.
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September 6, 2020 at 6:04 am #199832So basically then you tore out a CRT based video display and hot wired in a flat screen that had a frame collapse. Now it works but is dim.
And all this with no consultation of circuit diagrams, voltage tables and stuff.
Truely amazing, very well done.
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