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Looks like it can be thinned with xylene (or their #1 thinner) according to their website. I think I’ll try xylene for the finish coat so that it has more open time and can hopefully flow out flat with no brush marks. I saw that the spray version got mostly good reviews but a few bad ones on Amazon so I don’t want to take any chances with so much work put into the finishing already. The enemy of good is better!
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Thanks to a heads up from @BorgDog I was able to get some replacement parts from a guy on Pinside who is parting out a Jubilee (4 player Darling) for the cost of shipping plus the extra $25 I sent him for helping me out. Here is the new lockdown bar as well as the new and old central plastic and plunger cover. The new plastic is more yellowed than the ones I got with the machine, anyone ever de-yellow clear plastic?
The final fill coats of KBS Diamond are on and the cupped/low plastics have all been filled.
Before KBS
After KBS and keylining
Everything has been sanded flat so its all dull.
I cut some KBS by 25% with xylene to make it flow as well as possible and put on a thin coat to have something to work with for the final sanding and polishing. We’ll see how it looks when it dries, I may add another coat.
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So today I decided to tackle the cracked central plastic. I had gotten a replacement from a guy parting out a Jubilee but the plastic had turned very yellow compared to all of the other good plastics from my table. I read online about using hydrogen peroxide and UV light to whiten plastics but I wasn’t sure it it would work on clear plastic. I read another series of posts about sanding off the outer layer of yellow and then buffing back to shiny clear so I tried that and it looks like the yellowing is more than just a surface problem.
I then made a scan of the plastic and used that to make a CNC path for making a replacement. The original plastic is .090 thick and I had some leftover scrap .090 laying around so I used that to make a new plastic. The gcode cut the holes first and then profiled the outer border of the plastic.
Next I used the DecalPro system to make a graphic for the plastic and put a white underlayer so that the colors would register correctly. The first layer didn’t block light from behind it quite well enough so I made a second graphic and applied it over the first. Here is the end result with the cracked one on the left and the yellow one on the right.
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Sweet Jesus. So many multi talented people in this forum.
Very nice
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wait, dude, you have a CNC router too? crap I’m so behind on toys, there’s no way I can win.
That plastic turned out really niceÂ
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I thought about making the plastic by hand but I picked up a special down cutting spiral bit for plastics a few weeks ago and I wanted to try that out.
CNC is a funny thing. When I first heard about it I thought “why would I want to get one of those, I can do all this myself.” Then when I saw the ultra cool carving that can be done with one I broke down and got a MillRight Carve King. Now that I have one I find that I use it for all kinds of little projects like the little gears for the play meter found and the plug splint on page one of this post.
You need one of these Dan!
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@scottacus thats AWESOME! very nice work! i dont use my CNC much but when i do its a great tool
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Messing with the VPinball app and push notifications.
So if you haven't downloaded app yet what are you waiting for!?
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Hooray! The final 800 -> 1000 -> 1500 -> Polishing Compund -> Meguires Scratch X 2.0 -> Paste Wax -> Buffing is done. Time to repopulate the table, this is where all those photos I took as I took the table apart start to pay off. This helps prevent the “of course I know where everything goes so why do I have one left over post?”
It’s not perfect but it’s good enough for an old 1973 table…
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Fantastic!!! And you only have one left over post? :)
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A-MA-ZingÂ
 the craftsmanship oozes of the pages…… what a joy to watch ‘n read !!You need to login in order to like this post: click here
The backglass translight or should I say translights came today from GameOnGrafix. The printing was very high quality and the material is both translucent as well as easy to cut with an x-acto. This is nice because you need to cut out the openings for the score reels and credit reel not once but twice because the mask is a completely separate printing.
I wondered if they would do a second printing of black over the colored layer but they did it with two prints. The next thing that I was wondering about was if the white was going to be too opaque or if I needed to cut out all of the white areas? This would be a real problem for the lettering! I tried out just the color print and it transmitted light well so I slid the mask layer in and the white turned out to be not too much of a light blockerÂ
Next I cut out the score reels and then used those cut outs to draw the squares onto the mask layer. If anyone uses this service, do yourself a big favor and print the same outlines for the score reel openings onto the mask layer as well, you’ll thank me later!
Here is a test video of a game start up for two players, ball cycling from 1 to GAME OVER and then cycling through all 10 match numbers. The numbers that are under the dark blue don’t show up well but I doubt they show up well on the real thing either.
One thing that puzzles me is that Williams went through the trouble of creating a mask for the guy playing the lyre in the lower right but put no lights behind him. They probably should have put another light behind the center dancer’s head…
So is GameOnGrafix a winner? Absolutely! Where else are you going to find a backglass this nice for $68.14?
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Well dang if that don’t look pretty good! Surprised!
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For the price it is Crazy Good!
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It looks great and yes the price is great so win win
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Of course I spent MANY hours fixing the image from Wildman so if time is money then other options like Begestro start to make more sense.
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There is a local ad for a working Darling – $450 without a backglass…
Can’t believe how nice that turned out, @scottacus.
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I know you were talking about picking up a table last year (Spanish Eyes I think). I have the backglass artwork files for you if you ever need them.
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Starting to put it all back together. One of the problems that I’ve found is how to keep the light bulb sockets on the playfield clean while wet sanding and applying clear coat. I took a while to clean out a few so that I could get bulbs into them. @BorgDog any tricks that you use for this?
So far everything works except that the table is not scoring any points when the kickers by the flippers fire. Probably a switch that needs adjusting because they worked before I depopulated the playfield. New center plastic looking good!
*Note the invisible wires going to the drain kicker solenoid…
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I use those foam ear plugs that you squish then put in and let expand. fit great for gottlieb light holes, just the straight, non tapered ones set just below the surface.
for bigger holes I just tape the bottom then clean out what gets in the hole, an xacto usually gets the sides good. for longer slots I use foam backer rod weatherstripping available at most hardware stores, again set just below the surface and clean with an xacto and maybe a dremel.
I am far from an expert however, I believe you have now done more playfields than I.
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Oh now that is brilliant!
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