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I know you were talking about picking up a table last year (Spanish Eyes I think). I have the backglass artwork files for you if you ever need them.
Yeah, still looking for a Spanish Eyes. I’m trying to clear out some space in the laundry room to keep a few pins. Would love to end up with a classic SS Stern and a few EMs to fix up, although it would probably end my VP career.
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Oh, no. What’s your wife’s phone number ? Have to prevent that !
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Owning a pinball table is really overrated, no need to go there.
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The playfield is now populated with everything but the pop bumpers because I am waiting for new mylar rings to arrive.
I’m getting a little bored waiting for the mylars to arrive so I decided to follow up on something that my brother suggested a while ago. The game is set to free play because someone has bent one of the switches on the credit assembly so that it always stays closed regardless of whether the credit reel is at the zero position or not.
I bent the switch back so that it opens in the credit zero position which essentially makes the game coin play again. An aluminum plate with a slider switch on it was added so that the leaf switch can be shorted out for free play or not so that the zero position of the credit reel will not allow additional games until a coin up.
I’ve not seen this on machines before but I figured that whoever buys this now has the option of easily switching between free play or coin play, just like on our VP tables.  It works like a champ! I hope those mylars come today or I probably end up further modding the table…
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hopefully you got the full stick down ones, darn Gottlieb put floating ones and junk always got under them and ground away the paint.. yes actually the opposite of what they put them there for.
that being said, for home use with the new kbs coating I’m not going to bother putting any on at all (honestly don’t remember if I did on Pinball Pool or not).
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Playfield looks great!
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Messing with the VPinball app and push notifications.
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Floating mylar, sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Mine are stick down ones from Pinball Resource and I also picked up a new pinball so that it doesn’t mar the playfield.
Thanks @Randr! The playfield turned out OK, the dark blue that I mixed matched really well until the KBS went on and then it turned darker than the original paint so there are darker blue spots all over the table. The light blue and pink both match perfectly and the green is off by a little but not near as bad as the dark blue. Probably bothers me more than anyone who would see the table for the first time.
The scoring issue with the kickers turned out to be a non-issue. I forgot that for the scoring to take place the switch needs to be closed durning the entire run of the score motor and I just tripped the switch and let it go when I tested it.
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Everything is now back together and most importantly everything works! The final issue that I’m working with is getting the two side kickers that are just above the flippers to both kick the same way. The one on the right is pretty much perfect but the one on the left will kick 4 out of 5 balls to the other side but will not get the last one over more than once every 20 tries or so. I’ve cleaned the linkages, made sure the return springs are identical, decreased the table slope, assured no side to side tilt, put the table onto the high tap (31v AC vs 29v AC), aimed the kickers and made sure that the trigger wire is not effecting the ball trajectory.
The last thing to try is to pull both coils and see if they have the same resistance and switch them side to side to see if that makes a difference. They seem to be “newer” coils becasue they have plastic sleeves and the rest of the table has metal sleeves. They also don’t show any signs of toasting of the plastic base or fish tape.
Here are photos of the table as it stands now.
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I pulled the coils and one (strong one) had 1.7 ohms resistance and the other had 1.9-2.0 ohms. I switched the coils side to side and the problem kicker followed the weaker coil so the mechanical linkages are not the source of the problem. The magnetic strength of a coil is inversely proportional to the coil’s resistance and the amount of amperage also goes up with decreasing resistance so there is a limit to how low of a resistance can be put into a circuit until the amperage blows the fuse. In a DC circuit a 1.5 ohm coil in a 30v would give 20 Amps but in an AC circuit the changing voltage causes an inductive resistance which adds to the coils resistance and lowers the amperage to a safe value for the fuses.
I figured about a 5% decrease in resistance would be a good starting point so I pulled 25 wraps from the bad coil (G 22-500 [500 wraps of 22 gauge wire]) and retested the coil’s resistance, it was down to 1.7 ohms. This coil now fires strongly enough to push the 5th ball to the other side about half the time!
Lastly I cleaned up the 1000 and 10,000 reel’s index board. This is a board with traces and a set of rotating points that connect the x000 lead to the x000 socket on the free game jack and the y0,000 lead to the y0,000 plug for those jacks. Now the machine gives free games for any score set with the plugs and jacks.
Here is a video of the finished table in action.
Here is a photo of the two machines that I’ve restored, Darling with Tropic Fun, in the storage room.
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sweet, nice work!
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Amazing job. Well done and congrats!
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Messing with the VPinball app and push notifications.
So if you haven't downloaded app yet what are you waiting for!?
for IOS and Android********************************************************
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Thanks for the video. Great to get to watch how the ball moves on a cleared EM with no insert cupping. Probably much closer to how it would have originally played.
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I can’t believe the table didn’t tilt at the 27 sec mark in your video.
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I can’t believe the table didn’t tilt at the 27 sec mark in your video.
I was pretty impressed with that nudge. Well played.
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Very nice. Thank you for sharing. I kind of hope that you sell it and start another project now. Been enjoying your thread here immensely.
Must admit. I’m happy to stay a VPin owner. Would not be able to do almost anything of what you did.
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These 70’s Williams tables don’t have weighted tilt plumbs so it takes a surprisingly large amount of motion to tilt them.  There is a slam switch as well as a ball on incline plane to tilt if you kick the coin door or lift the front end up.
The painted floor in the workshop is pretty smooth so it doesn’t take a lot of force to physically move the table.  I’m not a great player but I have a lot of fun!
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