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Nice rotisserie
Yeah, really. I have 8 or 9 machines (can’t keep track anymore) and haven’t made one yet, on the list just never gets to the top.
Looks like you are getting close to scanning timeÂ
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I found the plans for the rotisserie on Pinside (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-quick-and-dirty-rotisserie-guide). The author vid1900 seems to know what he is talking about in other posts so I figured his version of rotisserie is cheap and functional. I like that it breaks down when not in use for easy storage.
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Doing mostly body work at this point in time. I used a chisel to square up the edges of the plywood veneer tear out at the front of the table.
Cut veneers to fill the defects.
Bondo to fill up the gaps and level out.
Prime and sand.
Also had to fill all the nice carvings around the back box. The real shame of it is that this is not a super impressive score for this table. I was able to roll over 2,000,000 and then go on for a while on a couple of the dozen or so games I’ve played…
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Nice work on the cab repair. Very nice
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Lots of body work.. The cab was in pretty rough shape, not terrible like the backglass, but still lots of checking, gouges and scratches from use over the years. I started out mixing custom colors with Createx paints and airbrushing in the defects but the more I looked at the cab the more I figured that I better fill and fix the checking and cracks. I ended up “Bondoing” the defects and I’ve been using ultra thin layers of brushed paint to build up the finish to cover the Bondo glaze. In my hand this is an easier and better way to build up a solid under color without brush strokes or lots of overspray from my airbrush. The areas were too small for my HLVP gun…
Here’s the body and head.
Refinished the legs, primed and hammer painted them.
The playfield has been cleaned. I used epoxy and a scraper to level off the missing paint area where the saucer kickers chipped the pain away. I figured that the epoxy would stand up better than filler to being bangs by flying balls, we’ll see over time whether that was a good idea or not.
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I scanned the backglass in order to see if I can get or make a new one. The glass is in really terrible shape so replacing it is my best option considering all of the work I’m doing at making the machine look like it just rolled off the production line. Here’s a stitched image of the scans from photoshop with a little bit of edit work done to it (like the cloud). The scans were 600 dpi TIFF files.
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Nice scan.
how many parts was that? That would make a great authentic b2s that’s for sure
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It was 9 with a fair bit of overlap on them. I will release a Tropic Fun table once I get the machine finished since it is essentially the same as the Gulfstream table that I released earlier this year.
Having said this, the backglass is in horrible shape and more flakes off whenever you look at it…
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Lots of body work on the cab. I tried to keep as much of the original paint in place as possible but probably would have been just as fast to sand the cab to bare wood and start from scratch. All of the white as well as the splatter has been done and I’m working my way around the cab and head with orange. Lots of masking and airbrushing with a mixture of 35 drops yellow, 4 red, 2 florescent orange and 5 drops of thinner to make a good match of orange. The unmasked area has already been painted.
The head is is painted with everything but the green.
The beach balls on the front of the cab didn’t look right when I painted them because the front of the cab is nice and smooth everywhere except under the beach balls so I sanded them off and I am painting the front entirely white.
I shot a photo of the best beach ball on the cab, cleaned it up in photoshop and sized it for the front of the cab. I then used my DecalPro system to make new replacement beach balls for the front. The DecalPro basically takes a sheet of paper that has a water release glucose film on it and prints an image on this using a laser printer (black if you want one color and color if you want multiple colors). The laser toner is basically tiny pieces of plastic that are melted onto the paper by the laser printer. This printing is then run through a laminater at 379F with a sheet of transfer paper on top of it. The transfer paper is white for multi color images and what ever color you want (black, red, purple, gold, silver …) if you want only that one color. The transfer paper only sticks to the toner and a thick line of black is printed around the periphery. This is then run through the laminater again with a sheet of cleat mylar over it. The print sticks to the mylar by an electrostatic charge and the paper is placed into a water bath to release the toner from the green glucose film sheet. What you are left with looks like this.
These are then cut out and sprayed with an alcohol based adhesive. You then place the beach ball where you want it and the adhesive sticks it in place and then you pull back the mylar (which is weakly held on my the electrostatic charge) and presto magic, you have a very high quality transfer!
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Awesome !!
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All of the orange airbrushing is done and the first of the green was painted on the front of the cab. Since this area is the most seen I used a cardboard mask for the green so that there was a soft line between the green and the base white just like the original. Since this side of the cab was completely refinished this was not a problem because there was no old green paint pattern to follow. I also applied the two DecalPro beach balls to the front and they also turned out sweet with a feathered edge as well.
The green turned out to be 25 drops white, 20 green, 1 blue and 5 thinner…
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Very cool! Nice to see such detail put into this pin. Wow
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Took a break from the cab to work on the backglass artwork. I still need to fix some of the colors but most of the drawing work is done.
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Yow!
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Nice! If you already mentioned this sorry but how will you use this to restore the glass? Or is this for virtual?
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The original glass is toast, not even good enough to frame and mount on a wall so I’m going to need to make a new one. How to go about that is the question. I have three options that I can think of and if anyone has any other ideas please let me know.
The first is to send the artwork off to classicarcades and they will print it for $144 plus shipping. The second is to find a local “direct to substrate” printer and have them do the job. The problem with this is that if they’ve never done a backglass we’d both be figuring it out on the fly. The last is to print it myself with the DecalPro system. The biggest problem with this would be registration since I can’t print anything bigger than letter sized. This would be far and away the cheapest option.
A side benefit of fixing up the backglass artwork is that I can use it for a virtual “Tropic Fun” and modify it for “Gulfstream”.
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$144 to direct screen on the glass? That would be a great price! Or would that be a translight type deal instead of on glass?
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ClassicArcades on E-bay, the description for other backglasses reads:
BRAND NEW REPLACEMENT TRANSLITEÂ Professionaly UV Solvent Based Ink Reverse Printed on .060″ Clear polycarbonate
Using proprietary next gen multi layer technologyGREAT QUALITYÂ Looks just like a backglass
hidden text appears when bulb lights up
THESE ARE TOP QUALITY NOT CHEAP INK JET GARBAGE TRANSLITE REPLACEMENTS
Here is one of his ebay posts https://www.ebay.com/itm/BALLY-Lost-World-Pinball-Machine-Translite-Looks-Just-Like-Backglass/302842267928?hash=item4682ce4918:g:WwAAAOSwF7lbR4CG
Another option is Stephen Azzam <shazzam@comcast.net> who says: The complete restoration your Williams Tropic Fun original artwork, authorized by PPS/Bally Williams  on new tempered glass is $245 + $55 return shipping of the new restoration… This is with a 4-5 week time period with him doing all of the artwork restoration in photoshop. I’ve messaged him to see what the cost is with me doing the artwork.
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Have you contacted these guys?  http://bgresto.com/
It’s not on their current list but they can add from your stuff, not cheap though I hear.
Oh, and lots of bad reviews on that classic arcades place on pinside, take them all with a grain of salt.
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Thanks for the info, I think that Stephen Azzam <shazzam@comcast.net> is bgrestro.com.
I haven’t mic’ed out the backglass but my guess is that it is around .250, I wonder just what you are supposed to do to make up the thickness with a .06 thick backglass?
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