This topic contains 77 replies, has 11 voices, and was last updated by  Scottacus 5 months, 1 week ago.

Viewing 20 posts - 41 through 60 (of 78 total)
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  • #97848
     BorgDog 
    Participant
    MemberContributorvip

    I think, but not positive that Stephen Azzam and bgresto are the same place/dude.  :unsure:

     

    LOL  beat me to it.

     

    You could try posting in this thread on pinside and see if anyone has one.  https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-em-seeking-parts-thread

    #97899
     Scottacus 
    Participant
    Member

    The worst side of the cab is now done as well as the head.  One more side and then on to clear coat!

    20180910_14224620180910_144716

    #97900
     bord 
    Participant
    Member

    That cab is looking so good.

    #97903
     randr 
    Keymaster
    ModeratorMember

    Looks fantastic!

    Makes me want another project….don’t tell the wife

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    #97948
     Scottacus 
    Participant
    Member

    First coat of Minwax Polyacrylic Satin is now on and dry.  Anyone have any experience with this product?

    Backglass art is now pretty much done.  Here is the front and the front shown behind the lighting mask.

     

    Attachments:
    #97950
     Scottacus 
    Participant
    Member

    Mask

    Attachments:
    #97952
     BorgDog 
    Participant
    MemberContributorvip

    Nice work on that backglass.

    I’ve used minwax polycrylic satin on a lot of projects, including kitchen cabinets, bookshelves, etc.  I like it, easy to go on, easy cleanup.  If I want a nice finish I generally go two coats with a light sand in between to knock down any bumps, bubbles, gunk etc from the first coat. Mostly used the gallon stuff and brushed on, but have used spray can as well, and a spray gun with the gallon stuff once.

    #97955
     Scottacus 
    Participant
    Member

    Glad to hear that you had good experience with the polyacrylic.  Since you used it on a table I assume it must be pretty tough would you use it on a playfield?  I’ve read several positive reviews on Pinside but you get all kids of opinions over there…

    How do the spray cans work out, can you get a nice fine mist or does it come out in globs?  I’ve had some acrylics that didn’t spray well and I’d just as soon not get out the HVLP sprayer for the playfield.  My plan at this time is to fix up the playfield defects and then build up multiple layers of polyacrylic gloss  and then work them out to a high gloss finish.

    #97974
     BorgDog 
    Participant
    MemberContributorvip

    I would probably not use it on a playfield, I just don’t think it is durable enough. Although for home use would probably be fine. I used kbs diamond clear when I did pinball pool playfield and will use it on the Sinbad I’m working on as well. Seems to be holding up really well after 2 years of the pinball show (400+ plays each year) and all the home use.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #98076
     Scottacus 
    Participant
    Member

    The final clear is on the cab and dry so Tropic Fun once again stands on it’s own four feet!

    20180912_22221420180912_222111

    #98475
     Scottacus 
    Participant
    Member

    It’s finally playfield time!  I’m using createx paints with a brush for spot fixes, the lower section of blue had a lot of checking in it so I masked off the area and used the airbrush to blend in between the in-lanes and the figures.

    20180917_20095520180917_202341

     

    #98505
     Thalamus 
    Moderator
    ContributorMemberModerator

    Wow. That looks to be a job well done indeed ! :good:

    Did you know that there is mobile phone app that helps to keep track of site activity ?
    IOS : https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/vpinball-mobile-app/id1446518720?mt=8
    Android :https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vpinball.app&hl=en_US

    #98508
     randr 
    Keymaster
    ModeratorMember

    Wow! You are really doing  a full restoration on this! I am very impressed to say the least.

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    #98559
     Scottacus 
    Participant
    Member

    Thanks, yes this is a full restoration.  I’m replacing some of the graphics with DecalPro lettering but I’m out of white transfer pigment so I won’t be able to do the colored lettering for a couple of days while I wait for new supplies to arrive.  I will do the black lettering in the mean time and also get a coat of Diamond clear on it.  Borgdog recommends the Diamond clear and it can go on with a brush if cut with xylene so that’s good enough for me.  I don’t want to get out the HVLP and mess around with dialing it in and cleaning it up for something as small as a playfield.

    #98562
     randr 
    Keymaster
    ModeratorMember

    Very impressive project for sure so please post pics of the lettering job!

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    #98564
     BorgDog 
    Participant
    MemberContributorvip

    Be sure to do a test piece with the decalpro and diamond clear to make sure they don’t have issues.  The decalpro looks interesting, I’m going to have a lot of decals to do for my sinbad project (black and white mostly), so I’m watching closely.

    #98601
     Scottacus 
    Participant
    Member

    It took me about 30 minutes of messing around before I gave up on making colored text for the table on my laser printer because this game uses florescent green and orange for the missing letters.  There’s no way to make a laser printer put out colors that aren’t there in the first place.  I ended up hand painting in the missing letters and they turned out OK but not fantastic. Center 5000 and both upper “SPECIAL”s

    20180918_184300

    The DecalPro system will work perfectly for the missing black letters though.  First start out by making your artwork in whatever you like to use.  If the words are in color they need to be printed reversed because they will need white under them to make the colors show up correctly.  Laser printers assume that there will be white under the print so the color that they lay down is based upon this assumption.  I printed out both the black and colored letters even though I’m not going to use the colored ones just for example.  The paper is green just like the Revel decal paper you used as a kid because that is exactly what it is, decal paper without a decal.  The black box around the print is important as we will see later…

    20180918_183651

    The paper is then heated with a heat gun to drive out any water in it because the black pigment will stick to both toner and water.  The sheet is then run though a laminator at 379 on a backing board (temp may drop as in this photo from heat loss to the board).

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    The pigment sticks only to the toner.  You can use any one of a number of colors of transfer pigment ranging from solid colors to metals to iridescents…

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    Next a sheet of clear mylar is placed on the toner and run through the laminator.

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    The mylar sticks to the paper by electrostatic charge and the system is placed into a water bath to release the toner and mylar from the decal paper.  The decal paper has sugar on its surface and that dissolves with the water which is what causes the release.  The paper will want to roll up in one direction (lengthwise on the 8 x 10 sheet) so it needs to be fed into the water in that direction.  The black square is there to absorb any shear stress from entering the water bath.  Without this the letter will fall off into the water.

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    Special alcohol based spray adhesive is applied to the back side of the text.

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    The text is then applied to the playfield and the numbers are rubbed to make them stiick to the playfield surface.

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    The adhesive is much stronger than the electrostatic mylar charge so when you pull back on the mylar the toner and pigment stay in place.

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    I also had a partially missing “WHEN LIT” that I replaced in just the same manner.

    20180918_190735

    I’ve used DecalPro for years and it works really well.  The lettering is very tough but it is best to place a clear coat over it to protect it.  The system looks like a PIA to use but once you use it a few times, it is really pretty fast.  I didn’t time myself but I would bet that all of this (minus all of the photoshop time) took about 15 minutes.

     

    #98624
     randr 
    Keymaster
    ModeratorMember

    Wow I’m going to look into that decal system. Looking very nice

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    #98625
     BorgDog 
    Participant
    MemberContributorvip

    Looks great!  Much better hand letter fixing than I could do.

    Thanks for the write up on the decalpro, I watched one of their videos earlier today, d0 you also do the tape step with the blue tape they showed?

    #98627
     Scottacus 
    Participant
    Member

    There is a special low tack tape that can be used to pull up any pigment that stuck to the paper and not to the toner.  I do use this but only if it looks like I need to.  These letters were really clean on their edges so I skipped that step.

    One step you can’t skip is the heating the paper to drive out any water in it.  Most papers for laser printers have some moisture content to them to make them be able to make the tight bends that the paper needs to make as it goes through the printer.  I heard this from Frank Miller, the originator of DecalPro, and I’ve found that if I don’t run the heat right out to the edge, I’ll get these random sections of pigment on the paper where residual water was.

    The DecalPro was able to withstand the Diamond clear (cut by about 25% with xylene as per the instruction) if I didn’t go crazy and brush the area repeatedly on my test piece.  I put the first coat on with a foam brush and the finish is super thin, goes on without any brush marks and leveled really well.  (I put a level onto the playfield to make sure that it was level in all directions before starting.)  I hope the stuff dries well since it is so thin but it is super glossy right out of the can.

    20180918_195915

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