Non-analog plunger settings?

[Drybonz]

This train of thought actually started in another thread, but I didn’t want to murk that one up so thought I would start a new one.

For people that are not using an analog plunger, or are playing with a “desktop” system or using a button for their plunger… what are some good settings to allow for control of the plunger and skill shots, etc…

BorgDog recently mentioned .25 as the pull speed.  Clark Kent (those glasses don’t fool me) mentioned 150 as the pull depth and 55 as the strength.

I’m hoping to find some universal settings that I, or anyone else, could plug into tables to improve their plunger.  I found that the 150 for pull depth makes the plunger not make contact with the ball on a few tables.  Is the 55 strength enough power if you are slowing the plunger down to do half power skill shots, etc?

Thanks for the help.

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[roar]

You know I never thought of making this change! Great idea, I’ll follow along as I decided against an analog plunger in my cabinet.

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[BorgDog]

I think it varies by table and generation for a lot of those things.

I like the .25 pull speed for keyboard control just so you have a chance at a skill shot, smaller number would make even slower/better skill shot control but can get annoying if too slow.  Oh, and pull speed has no effect on release speed (strength), it just allows you to pick your spot better for release.

Plunger stroke length, which I’m assuming is what you mean by pull depth, varied by manufacture and era.  I measured the 3 – 70s era Gottliebs I have in the pinball room and they all have a pull stroke of 2-3/8″ which corresponds to about 112 in vp terms.  I’ve been told newer tables go about 3-1/4″ of stroke or about the 150 vp that Clark stated.  If you change the stroke length you will need to change the position of the plunger for it to work correctly.

Then there is release speed and mech strength which will vary also by slope, size of table, pull stroke, etc.  Generally I don’t mess with these on others tables unless something just totally doesnt’ work right.  In fact about all I ever change on others tables for keyboard or launch button use is the pull speed.  I’m building the new cab with an analog plunger so I’ll have to learn more on that side of things, but pull speed will not be an issue on that.

Hope that helps, and of course it’s all my opinion and others may have differing views on it.

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[Drybonz]

Thanks BorgDog… it sounds like re-positioning the plunger after changing the stroke length might be the tricky part?  Any tricks to positioning it properly or does it just need to be close enough to make contact?

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[Sliderpoint]

There is a line on the plunger object that represents the park position. This is where the plunger tip is when it is at rest. The end of the plunger is where it would extend to if it was pushed all the way in (analog) or how far the plunger “could” go give enough release speed from a full pull. That park position is a little different on different tables. I think a lot should at minimum touch the ball when it is in the plunger lane. How much it pushes the ball up the lane when at rest is the question. The rest of the table physics determine what the release speed needs to be to be an accurate recreation. That is different on all tables.

For mech strength vs. release speed. Those should be about the same number. So if you don’t have an analog plunger and are making a table, get the release speed dialed in and make the mech strength the same number. Go ahead and enable mech plunger too, it has no negative effects. It should probably be enabled by default in my opinion.

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[Drybonz]

Great… thanks for the info… appreciate  ya.   

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