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If I’m really honest with myself I’d have to say that I really didn’t know exactly what I was doing when I built my cabinet a couple of years ago. Sure I was good at woodworking and had built several computers but I don’t think I had a good grasp of just what extra goes into making a good pin cab. Because of that my giant ATX mother board and a couple of power supplies were built into a roll out shelf and “Everything Else” got attached to the walls of the cab. What I ended up with was a mess of connections (many hard to get at) that needed to be undone to be able to remove the MB shelf. The cab worked great but it was a royal pain to work on.
I tore my cab apart a couple of weeks ago and have been working on building a self contained “CORE” that contains all of these components: ITX motherboard with GTX 1070 card, SS HD, 2 CPU Power Supplies (one for the CPU and one for Pinscape), 24v Power Supply, Lepy Amp, 12V Power Supply for clean power the Lepy, Speaker Delay Board, Custom built controlled outlets and Teensy Board. I used a spare set of AXT connectors for the wiring harness to connect the CORE to the cab. Here is a photo of the assembly:
The control outlets were built because the “off the shelf” power strip that I used in my cab a couple of years ago was massive and most power strips have the outlets so close together that most wall warts take up multiple outlets on the strip. The way this works is that the computer’s power supply is connected to the control outlet that is hard wired to always have power and a 12v line from this power supply is connected to the 12/120v relay on the side of the first outlet box. Once the 12v line is energized it turns on the relay which switches on the 120v line to the rest of the outlets. This keeps everything else in the cab powered down until the machine turns on.
The ITX board is a fraction of the size of the original ATX board but has all of the functionality needed for the machine. The Teensy board and SSHD are mounted next to it.
The power supplies are mounted on aluminum rails so that they take up less space and blow air across the rest of the board.
(Out of photo space for this post, to be continued below…)
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The rest of the set up includes the Lepy amp and it’s 12v power supply, a 24V power supply and a special Speaker Delay Board that my brother designed. This board is there to keep the cab’s speakers off line until the Lepy amp as fully powered up and prevents a large “Clunk” from sounding during the amps’ power up period. This board is powered by an AC wall wart with a bridge rectifier to make DC to power the rest of the circuit. The AC power supply is there so that when the outlets switch off, the power to the Speaker Delay circuit cuts immediately. The 555 timer on the board has a 22uF/220K Ohm RC circuit so the the 555 has a 5+ second monostable delay.
Here is the “CORE” in the machine with the 24 pin ATX connector attached to the mating receiver in the cab.
The system works great and is a breeze to insert and eject from the cab. Here is the pinout for the 24 pin ATX connector. My motherboard only has two case fan pin outs and I have two fans in the main cab and one in the backbox so I wired the two fans in the cab together so that they are both powered by one set of output pins from the mother board.
A couple of other changes were made to the cab while I had it apart. The first is that I originally thought that a 1 inch hole was big enough for the channel between the cab and the back box. This was a mistake so I cut a new 2 inch hole so that now even full sized 3 prong plugs could fit through. Lastly I have LED lighting in the front and rear of the cab to give light for maintenance of the machine. These lights turn on when the cab’s coin or rear doors open and they were powered by a USB cable so that the lights would come on if the machine was turned off (which is when you often need the light). With the new “CORE” project I switched these to a 5v line from the CPU power supply but found out that they won’t work with the machine turned off so I had to rewire them to the USB cable. There is something special about USB that allows low current power to be applied to devices attached to the mother board during a powered down state.
The last thing that I am going to do to the cab before putting it all back together is that I’m going to route out 3/4 channels for my addressable LED strips to sit in. I currently have to unscrew these strips every time I lift up my playfield and this stresses the printed circuit connectors on the ends of the strips so if I mount them in channels I can leave them in the machine and not risk fracturing one of these ultra thin traces.
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WOW! Excellent work!
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You … a-hole you :) Now you made me feel bad about how my machine is built
Looks much better than mine
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I wanted to route channels in the sides of my cab for my addressable LED strips so that they sit below the surface of the cab sides. This will let me be able to swing up my playfield without having to remove these strips and run the risk of fracturing one of the printed traces that the Teensy board is hooked up to. The question was how to do this on a cab that has been in use for over two years and not ruin the cab?
What I ended up doing was that I bought a four foot long piece of angle iron to use as a router guide. I pulled one of these out of the rack at a big box store and I was surprised to see that it wasn’t completely straight over its run. I ended up pulling five pieces before I found one that sighted straight over it’s entire length. This was cut to a little longer than the LED strips and three screw holes were drilled into the iron.
I then screwed the addressable LED strips onto the machine and marked the perimeters around them. Since the strips are 3/4 inch wide I marked the center (3/8″) at each end and used a 1/2″ forstner bit to drill a 1/4″ deep hole on these marks. I chucked up a 1/2″ router bit in my Colt router and had a couple of guys hold the angle iron while I put the router and bit into one hole, moved the angle iron up to the router base and then repeated this with the other hole. I went back and forth between the holes a few times to make fine adjustments and screwed the angle iron to the cab side. This let me use the router as a means of locating the angle iron which eliminated any potential measuring errors.
The router was used to make a 1/2″ channel that was 1/4″ deep (to remove most of the material) and then a 3/4″ bit was used to route to the final width. A chisel was used to clean up and square the ends and the channels were painted black. Here is a photo of the strip in the channel!
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8-O
Wow, that is ingenuity at work. Great solution for the LED strips. You may have to post a video tour of your 2.0 setup.
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@Scottacus  Could you share any information or a schematic of your  “Speaker Delay Board”. Thanks.
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Speaker Delay Board!!
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I’ve found them now. When I searched last night all I was finding was how to delay the sound coming from each speaker. Today I search and their it is.Â
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Do you still need the schematic?
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No. I’m good now. Thanks though.
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