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  • #178053
    Attaball
    Participant
    @jaronsenna

    Hey all!

    I have started a pincab build and thought I’d share the progress here.

    Back in 2012 I built my first vpin cabinet after I won a 46″ tv that I thought was way to big to setup in my small living room. Enjoyed it a lot, but sold it to a friend at work to turn the “tiny game room” into a “tiny human room” as a baby was coming. Got it back in 20017 played a bit here and there, but did not spend much time on it. Fast forward to march this year, when I started working from home a lot more, fired up the cab a lot more, got back into the hobby and found amazing new tables, toys and software. Then, I started having issues with the PinDMD v1 on windows 10, also ran into issues with the mot-ion plunger on windows 10, and finally two weeks ago the PC gave up the ghost.

    A few days later I decided to start building a new cabinet instead of fixing those issues. I have another pc to put into it, bought zebs plunger kit and plan to replace the dmd with an LCD. I had spent a lot of time in the old cab on routing and managing wires and thought I had made a maintainable cab. But it really wasn’t: everything was accessible from the back only or by sliding out the slotted in playfield screen. I want to improve on that this time, so that I can add/maintain to it easier in the future.

    For now, pc specs are going to be:
    – Core i7 4790K
    – 16Gb RAM
    – GTX 760
    – 500gb SSD

    Displays:
    – Playfield: 4k Samsung tv
    – Backglass: 28″ inch FullHD monitor (Benq)
    – DMD: 15.6″ HD laptop panel

    The GPU is nowhere near capable of driving 2 HD and 1 4k display, but it will have to do for now. First, I am building the cab, then saving up for another GPU later, prob ably RTX 2060 Super, maybe a 1070 (Ti) or something.

    #178054
    Attaball
    Participant
    @jaronsenna

    First things first: bought two sheets of 18mm ply, made a cutlist and got to work with a circular saw and router:

    Schermafbeelding 2020-05-06 om 11.10.11Schermafbeelding 2020-05-06 om 11.10.29

    IMG_2704 IMG_2746IMG_2747

    I am not a wood worker at all, so I am always quite intimidated by the rotating blades of the circular saw, especially when cutting those grooves on the side (for playfield trim in this case). I know there are router bits for that kind of stuff, but I was too cheap to get those for just these few grooves. It all worked out well though and I still have all 10 digits :-)

    #179951
    Attaball
    Participant
    @jaronsenna

    Progress was made last week with some hours here and there. Finished building the main cabinet body and backbox first.

    IMG_2898

    IMG_2902

    IMG_2899

    And when everything was put together, it came time to fit the lockdown bar. And that’s when I discovered a measuring mistake I made. The cab was *exactly* as wide as the lockdown bar’s outer width. :negative: I have considered starting over, but decided to take the dremel and carefully reduce the width at the front top of the cab so everything would fit. Then took a sander to make it all smooth out towards the bottom. With all the trimming on, it feels pretty good now, but boy what a daft mistake to make…

    Next up is making the frames for the backbox displays. In my old cab I used a led dmd, but for this one I wanted to go the recent Stern style and have a display there. I got my hands on a 15.6″ laptop panel. I will need a separate controller board in order to hook it up to a GPU, but that’s for later. First, I wanted to make a frame to house the DMD. I did not want rounded corners with a large radius, nor did I want the panel to sit behind the full 18mm of ply, so with a bit of handy work and a lot of practise and patience with a router, I was able to come up with this:

    IMG_2802

    In these pictures I have used painters tape to tape the screen to a back board temporarily.

    IMG_2823

    The screen now sits about 2mm “deep” from the front of the panel. The corners have a radius of a few mm and it all looks pretty good I think.
    The backbox will house a 27,5″ HD monitor for backglass. I was unhappy with the bezel, so removed it (not in these photo’s) and now this can site very close a panel I have yet to make. Good times!

    IMG_2798

    The cabinet will have rgb undercab led strips (non mx). But for the backbox I wanted to do something different. So, I have cut a 10mm groove in the side panels of the backbox. RGB led strips will go inside, then I will fill it up with clear silicone and put translucent t-molding on top so that the sides of the backbox glow up in various colors.

    IMG_2760

    Fingers crossed that air cargo from China is still happening as I will be needing those led strips soon :-)

    Next up: a playfield board to mount the tv to and that can be lifted for easy access to the inside of the cab.

    #180282
    Attaball
    Participant
    @jaronsenna

    Last night, I have been playing with the board to use for lifting the playfield monitor. On the bottom side of that board, I plan to put a ledwiz, contactors, maybe a PSU, etc. In the future, I want to add SSF so will have to mount 4 exciters somewhere.

    IMG_2913

    Mounting the exciters to this board would make it easy to access them later if need be, especially those at the back of the playfield. But I wonder if the sound they produce is better/louder/fuller or anything when mounted to the cabinet itself?

    Anybody with experience have a suggestion? Best to save space on the playfield board for future exciters mounted on the corners, or would those be better mounted to the cabinet sides?

    #180289
    Thalamus
    Moderator
    @thalamus
    ContributorMemberModerator

    I recommend that you attach the exciters to the side walls of the cabinet. They act as speakers, as well as feedback and you are keeping your hands most probably attached to the sidewalls some way or another. Two of them you want to place near the flipper buttons. The other two further up towards the back. How far ? Almost all the way towards the backglass.

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #180396
    Attaball
    Participant
    @jaronsenna

    Thanks @thalamus. I thought the exciters were meant to play sounds and use the panels for amplification of those sounds. But, from your reply I understand they providy tactile feedback (as well)? Will you feel the output as well as hear it then, I may have misunderstood what the SSF is capable of..

    #180425
    Thalamus
    Moderator
    @thalamus
    ContributorMemberModerator

    A “normal” ssf setup has 2 speakers in the backglass and a sub, all putting sound out to the air. Let’s call that the rom sound. Then you have 4 extra speakers, type exciters. Those you attach to the side of the cabinet. They will by their design loose slightly their ability to play clear sound compared to their friends that play it through the air. The exciters use the surface that they are attached to – to make that their “speaker” so to say. So, yes, you are right. They do have techtile feedback. And that is why I recommend their placement as above. Just look at a few of the sketches in the ssf part of the forum. I use the DjRobX setup. 3 amplifiers. All is 2.1, but I’m not using them as 2.1 ( backglass and two side speakers in the backglass ), then 2.1, using only left and right near the backglass and the same for the a pair near the flippers.

     

    #180542
    zimbakin
    Participant
    @zimbakin
    Member

    Makes me want to do another build. Building is the best part of the whole process. Looking great!

    Not sure if you planned this already, however you might want to consider adding some air intakes and outputs. Didn’t see any holes in the pics, so just thought I’d throw it out there. Gets pretty hot underneath.

    I have x2 in at front base and x2 out through the back box to push external ambient air through the entire cab.

    #180859
    Attaball
    Participant
    @jaronsenna

    Makes me want to do another build. Building is the best part of the whole process. Looking great!

    Not sure if you planned this already, however you might want to consider adding some air intakes and outputs. Didn’t see any holes in the pics, so just thought I’d throw it out there. Gets pretty hot underneath.

    I have x2 in at front base and x2 out through the back box to push external ambient air through the entire cab.

    In my old cab I had to 220mm fans in de back of the cabinet as outputs and filtered passive intakes at the front. This was way overkill. This weekend I cut one 120mm intake in the bottom at the front and a bunch of passive output holes in the top of the backbox. And there are three very large holes between the top of the cab and the bottom of the backbox. Made some nice progress this weekend, but did not take photo’s yet. Will do over the next few days. I used some Stern parts to slide out the flip up the playfield monitor so I can access all of the insides of the cabinet fairly easy.

    Now on to finding the proper hinges for the backbox dmd frame and backglass frames, then on to painting and artwork.

    #180970
    LynnInDenver
    Participant
    @lynnindenver
    Member

    Radiant Silverball also does cooling – passive intake grills in the coin door coin return slots (I removed the flaps and original blanking plates I 3d printed, and replaced them with 3d printed grills) and three 120mm fans blowing out the back of the cabinet. It seems to keep the temperatures within 10 degrees of the room ambient, prior to that it could get to 20+ degrees above the room ambient.

    Creator of the first PinupPlayer PostDMD mods for VPX - PostDMD for Masters of the Universe VPX and Jaws VPX.
    Head Proprietor of Pisces Pinball, a VPX table developer.
    Lead Technician of MC Chase Amusements, a private arcade in our home basement.

    #181303
    Attaball
    Participant
    @jaronsenna

    Yeah, I’ll measure the temperatures inside the cabinet to see if all stays within reasonable limit. But on my old cab I found a lot of dust inside, even though I had all inputs filtered. But I guess from opening up, the coin door and those massive intake fans, it would just suck dust in from every possible direction.

    In the meantime, I have managed to mount the playfield monitor to the plafield board and installed the mechanism in the table.

    Normal, playing setup will look something like this:
    IMG_2949

    Then, when I need to access the back of the cabinet, I can lift the playfield up and slide it forward, like this:
    IMG_2948

    And to access the stuff under the playfield and/or in the middle and front of the cab, the playfield can be lifted up:
    IMG_2947

    I am using the same parts as used in modern Stern’s I believe, but the sliding/rotating metal parts on the back of the playfield board, are not used that way . This is the underside of a Ghostbusters playfield where you see the slider thing about halfway or 1/3rd of the playfield. The back of the board has a metal profile at the corner, where it then rotates on I believe. So, mine is a bit different, but it works well…
    Schermafbeelding 2020-05-20 om 08.44.54

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