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    Based on the Hot Tip table of 32assassin!

    A big thanks to 32assassin for letting me mod his wonderfull table

    More credits: Poppote for his artwork Gtxjoe for his help on the VP9 version

     

     

    Just copy it to your Tables folder. Rom needed.

    v2.1

    Fixed the lights on the primitives showing in the wrong position in DT mode! DT mode should now look the same as FS.

    Minor changes around the table

    v2.0

    - I got an up to date set of materials from hauntfreaks that i used for the v2.0 release. This stuff works wonders.

    - Hauntfreaks finetuned most of the images on this one to make them look nice and clean. And they do! Thanks!

    - Tuned the insert lights for more depth

    - I made a new bumper cap and rendered hauntfraks face on it...... just kidding!

    - Made new one way gate primitives and reworked the meshes to look nice and clean

    - New primitives for the other gates - Made a new back cover prim for the arc at the top of the table. I made three different renderings for this and i included them all in the table. Those are:

    HT - Back Cover_BAKED less - A subtle reflection of the BG

    HT - Back Cover_BAKED more - A more visible reflection of the BG

    HT - Back Cover_BAKED neutral - A neutral no BG reflection

    In the download the neutral one is installed. If you want to try the other ones just select Primitive9 and change the image in the options to one of the above.

    - Made a new metal rail for the arc with rendering

    - Reshaped the plastic images of the slingshots to make them parallel to the inlane/outlane. Adjusted poles and rubbers to it.

    - New screw primitives all around the table. Used the gameplay video to place them in the right spot. Sorry for stuffing one right into the eye of the horse on the left slingshot. But thats how it is!

    v1.0:

    - Fixed a bug where the spinner is not registering points. Fix by gtxjoe for the Hulk table.

    - The target above the right drop targets did not register a hit. Wrong name. Fixed.

    - Target inside the Captive Ball lane didn' register a hit. Wrong name. Fixed.

    - Fixed the wire rails that lead to the flippers. They had a wrong shape / position.

    - Left kickerhole is now releasing the ball into the lower half of the right slingshot(gameplay video)

    - Did some tuning for the upper part of the table. After launching the ball it will now bounce left and right towards the kickerhole like seen in gameplay videos.

    - Raised the strength of the slingshots and the bumper (gameplay video).

    - Added a bit of randomness where it was necessary (gameplay video).

    This topic contains 14 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by  Thalamus 3 weeks, 4 days ago.

    Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
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    • #64614
       Schreibi34 
      Participant

      Hot Tip (Williams 1977) B.O.L. mod

      Based on the Hot Tip table of 32assassin!

      A big thanks to 32assassin for letting me mod his wonderfull table

      More credits:
      Poppote for his artwork
      Gtxjoe for his help on the VP9 version

       

       


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      5 users thanked author for this post.
      #64618
       Schreibi34 
      Participant

      I had a nice conversation with HountFreaks about obstructed lights and that they are far from perfect. Some people like it, some people don’t. I was one of the persons who didn’t like them at all.

      So i took 32assassin’s Hot Tip table for testing. The table should be up after aproval. A big thank you to 32assassin for letting me use his table!!

      I started to fool around with the lights. I used this gameplay video as a model because i think this captured the lighting of a darker table pretty well:

       

       

      I also used this video to finetune the gameplay.

       

      I work as a CAD-Constructor in the german automobile design industrie. Sometimes i have to do renderings from my work for presentations. I’m far from perfect in this but i do know quite a bit about that lighting / shadow / material stuff. I looked at a couple of tables that were using obstructed lights. The problem was that the shadow area of the shaped light was way to dark because it’s just lights out right next to the full GI light. And the darker the setting of the table is, the worse it gets. Big lights make it worse too. When you look at a rendered picture you can see light reflecting and bouncing all over the place. Shadows are never completely dark on a pinball table and they are not as long. Only if you turn the roomlights completly off you will get those massive shadows.

      Just in case someone is interested i have written a little tutorial off what i have done. I have left you guys an example on my modded table on layer 7 to the right outside of the table. It’s a basic set of the 3 lights with an example of the triangle shadow to the center and the one that wraps around the post. The lights are preset to give you a good starting point for an environment emission scale of about 2-3 and the day-night slider about 1 increment from the left. This surely depends on the resources you are useing! Just copy the threepack to your table and experiment with it.

       

      Table grafics / materials are unchanged. Original 32A. Visually i just changed the lights. I used pictures of stripped playfields to position the lightsources.

       

      I am now using 3 lights per GI.

       

      1. A small one with high transmit (around 0,9 – and low intensity of about 3-4 depending on the plastic and personal taste) to show the light bulb through the plastic. Set the hight about 5 units below the plastic hight. If you want to use bigger lights on darker tables you need this to set a smaller highlight.

       

      2. Shaped / obstructed light with the rays being triangles with straight lines on the sides. The tip of the triangle ends in the center of the light source which makes it a lot easier to get a geometrical correct shadow (look at the template in layer 7). Select the obstructed light and ad 3 angled controlpoints next to each other by pressing F10. Pull the middle one to the center of the light. Be carefull. Don’t pull it over the middle because then the lightsource is under a shadow and the light turns off. Zoom in and make shure you stop before the centercross. Just pull the other two control points until the lines touch each side of the rubberpost.

      Now we have to make it look good for the DT users (thanks for wakeing me up, HauntFreaks). Wait with this step until you are sure that you have finished the tuning of your lights and shadows because scaling and readjusting the shadow after moving a light will benefit from the triangle shape.After you have finished the lighting add two more angled controlpoints (F10) where the shadowlines make contact to the rubberpost.Pull the controlpoint from the center to the post and make it smooth. Now you can wrap the shadow around the back of the post. You might need a second smooth control point (F11) to make it fit more perfectly around (this is also shown in the example on layer 7). Set this to a hight of about 0.5 because if you set it higher the viewing angle might cause an offset on the shadow.

      Transmit has to be set to zero for this light!

       

      3. Fully round GI that is at least 20% bigger (falloff) then the shaped light. Low transmit to light up the plastic the way you like it. Set the hight above the target hight and below the plastics. This light has a transmit value >0 and if you set it to let’s say 20 the targets will be lit from behind halfway up.
      The reflections on the ball will also benefit from this hight value because the ball will now be fully lit by the big lightsource. When set low, the ball will only be lit with the reduced transmit value.

       

       

      When you work with it, make sure you have at least two emty layers. Three would be better. Work with one threepack in let’s say layer 4 and use layer 5 and 6 for storeing so you can select single lightsets a bit easier. Chaos will make this a bad trip!

      You can play around with the values and balance everything to your likeing. A brighter shaped light will lead to more visible shadows. Also lowering the brightness of the fully round light will make the shadows more visible. Balancing is the key. You can also play around with falloff power to influence the fading of the shadows and for shure you can scale the size of the obstructed light to set the length of the shadows. If the triangles are centered correctly, the rays are not loosing contact to the rubber post when scaling.

      It’s important that the fully round light is at least 20% bigger (falloff) then the shaped one so the shadows fade into light. A falloff power of 2,5 is a good starting point for all lights.

      If you start to see things from the playfield through the plastics go to the material settings for the plastics and set opacity as high as about 0,998. On this table a opacity of 0,99 let’s me see stuff from under the plastic. This is because with this method there is a lot more light under the plastics.

      Baked in shadows might ruin the emersion of a dark table. They are usually rendered from gameroom/pub/arcade lights. Dark tables produce their shadows on a playfield level. Which means roomlights throw plastic shadows onto the playfield, GI lights throw it up to the ceiling. Only things that are lower then the light hight will produce shadows on the playfield. This table’s lighting has a mid to low overall brightness and a low opacity roomlight shadow would be the best choice for this setting. But sadly i don’t have the time and the knowledge to do ad this to the table.

       

      Ok, so much for now. I hope this was of some use for a couple of people. If hope my english was not too bad and you guys did understand what i was trying to say.

      Have fun and take care!


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      #65168
       Krille 81 
      Participant

      Thank you very much for this kind of light mod. I like it very very much :) Good work :good:

      1 user thanked author for this post.
      #67577
       randr 
      Keymaster
      ModeratorMember

      quick video with chimes just credit and launched ball no flipping

      https://www.dropbox.com/s/2ad7ktp0cql2v8z/Video%20Oct%2025%2C%209%2019%2002%20PM.mov?dl=0


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      #68018
       Schreibi34 
      Participant

      Sorry for responding late! Will check it tonight! I was busy making primitives and learning to bake rendered textures in Blender.


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      #68067
       Schreibi34 
      Participant

       That sounds awesome!

      It might sound stupid, but these are not real chimes with DOF, right? I now nothing about that DOF thing and what is actually available  :unsure:

      #68070
       randr 
      Keymaster
      ModeratorMember

      Real chimes from real pinball machine.

      #68073
       Schreibi34 
      Participant

      Nice!!

      #69551
       Ben Logan2 
      Participant
      Member

      2.0 version looks so good. Thanks to you and Haunt. Excellent work.

      1 user thanked author for this post.
      #69553
       Thalamus 
      Participant
      ContributorMember

      Thank you Schreibi34. Just downloaded the table, will have to wait until tomorrow to try it. But, looking at the changelog it seems to be a lot of changes. Your first release was looking great already so I’m looking forward to try this one out.

      And, thank you Hauntfreaks.

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      #69554
       randr 
      Keymaster
      ModeratorMember

      Was good already so I’m sure this is great. Thank you

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      #69598
       Ben Logan2 
      Participant
      Member

      Is this one workin for you guys on VPX 10.4? I keep keep a VP needs to close error.

      #69600
       Schreibi34 
      Participant

      It did run on my 10.4 install. I’m not at the cab so i can’t tell you the VPX built right now.

      #69677
       STAT 
      Participant
      MemberContributor

      I am at 3237 at it works well … thanks Schreibi :good:

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      #69683
       Thalamus 
      Participant
      ContributorMember

      Latest here and it works great. Schreibi34 :good:

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