- This topic has 6 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 9 months ago by Phil Docker.
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July 10, 2016 at 9:39 am #33149
As the name suggests this is my 2nd build.
I spent an awful lot more on the first cab, by buying ‘ready made’ plunger kits (VirtuaPin v2) as well as the PinDMD3.
This time I have put a larger screen as playfield (40 instead of 37), and a larger backglass TV (26 inch instead of 20).
Obviously it is a ‘work in progress’ but is now 100% playable.
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July 10, 2016 at 9:44 am #33155The full spec of PC is:
Intel i7 2600K processor
8gb ram (going to upgrade to 16gb)
NiVidia GTX960 4gb DDR5 graphic card
480Gb solid state HDDRunning PC power supply just for the computer.
Have two 12v power supplies – one for coils/DOF, the other for amplifier and any extra 12v need (fans/toppers/lights)
Also one 5v power supply in the backbox to run the Pin2DMD (by pinballsp).
Windows 7
Pinball XVP 9, VP9 phy mod, VPX, PinballFX 2.Attachments:
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July 10, 2016 at 9:45 am #33161Looking great. Does the playfield hinge up I see bolts in sides of cab so I assume it does. Any specs? Dof?
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Messing with the VPinball app and push notifications.
So if you haven't downloaded app yet what are you waiting for!?
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July 10, 2016 at 9:51 am #33162Used the Pinscape plunger, but using a pot which is MUCH EASIER. A PinAna bracket for the potentiometer (trust me – buy one instead of trying to make one for ages!)
Playfield does not hinge, you have to remove the side rail on one side to get it out. However I have ironed out 90% of issues before I built it into the cab. I wanted the screen to be as big as possible without having a widebody cabinet. I know it is not ideal but I will work around it. In my last build I never had to touch the PC.
A USB PinKADE device has been installed for buttons.
Ultimarc PAC drive has been used for illuminating buttons. Dont use one of these for coils – even via relays as automatically ‘power up’ on switch on until the PC is booted.
Sainsmart 8 board fed via USB for the coils. This needs a 12v supply to operate the relays so I have that switched – so I can basically turn the coils on and off using one switch.
The cabinet is ‘decalled’ with carbon fibre pattered vinyl. I went off the idea of having proper pinball decals on this cab. Wanted to keep it plain and silver….
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July 10, 2016 at 10:00 am #33167NEXT JOBS:
Make the backbox panel, mount two ‘car speakers’ and DMD in bottom panel.
Make bevel for backbox screen and main screen.
Put extra cooling fans in to cool the inverter area on the screen, this may need an inlet from where the coinbox would go.
Replace the faulty amp (one channel has failed).
Decal ‘buy in’, ‘escape’, ‘pause’ buttons on front of cab.
Fit external USB socket on base for ease of installing new games.
Fit external LAN socket to rear – just to tidy it up.
Headphone socket on front door.
Put backbox cabling into flexible conduit (like on a real pinball). Isolate sainsmart electronically from PC. Even with diodes I get the occasional ‘crash’.
Tidy up the edges of decals.The little jobs take the time! More than likely a friend will buy this one off me then I will make a MK3 and say its the last one. Every build gets better/easier…..
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July 10, 2016 at 10:22 am #33168Nice! I will agree every build gets cleaner and better but man they are a lot of work!
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Messing with the VPinball app and push notifications.
So if you haven't downloaded app yet what are you waiting for!?
for IOS and Android********************************************************
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July 10, 2016 at 10:29 am #33169<p style=”text-align: left;”>Nice! I will agree every build gets cleaner and better but man they are a lot of work!</p>
Yeah – but satisfying to complete and enjoy with friends.
Had to do a load of ground work on the cabinet. Backbox was falling to bits, and the base of the main cabinet needed replacing.
Legs have been painted with hammerite as well as the coin door. The bolts you pointed out on the cab are just decorative as I simply forgot to fill them before decalling.
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