Forum Replies Created
-
Yeah, I’ll measure the temperatures inside the cabinet to see if all stays within reasonable limit. But on my old cab I found a lot of dust inside, even though I had all inputs filtered. But I guess from opening up, the coin door and those massive intake fans, it would just suck dust in from every possible direction.
In the meantime, I have managed to mount the playfield monitor to the plafield board and installed the mechanism in the table.
Normal, playing setup will look something like this:
Then, when I need to access the back of the cabinet, I can lift the playfield up and slide it forward, like this:
And to access the stuff under the playfield and/or in the middle and front of the cab, the playfield can be lifted up:
I am using the same parts as used in modern Stern’s I believe, but the sliding/rotating metal parts on the back of the playfield board, are not used that way . This is the underside of a Ghostbusters playfield where you see the slider thing about halfway or 1/3rd of the playfield. The back of the board has a metal profile at the corner, where it then rotates on I believe. So, mine is a bit different, but it works well…
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
Last night, I have been playing with the board to use for lifting the playfield monitor. On the bottom side of that board, I plan to put a ledwiz, contactors, maybe a PSU, etc. In the future, I want to add SSF so will have to mount 4 exciters somewhere.
Mounting the exciters to this board would make it easy to access them later if need be, especially those at the back of the playfield. But I wonder if the sound they produce is better/louder/fuller or anything when mounted to the cabinet itself?
Anybody with experience have a suggestion? Best to save space on the playfield board for future exciters mounted on the corners, or would those be better mounted to the cabinet sides?
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
Progress was made last week with some hours here and there. Finished building the main cabinet body and backbox first.
And when everything was put together, it came time to fit the lockdown bar. And that’s when I discovered a measuring mistake I made. The cab was *exactly* as wide as the lockdown bar’s outer width.
I have considered starting over, but decided to take the dremel and carefully reduce the width at the front top of the cab so everything would fit. Then took a sander to make it all smooth out towards the bottom. With all the trimming on, it feels pretty good now, but boy what a daft mistake to make…Next up is making the frames for the backbox displays. In my old cab I used a led dmd, but for this one I wanted to go the recent Stern style and have a display there. I got my hands on a 15.6″ laptop panel. I will need a separate controller board in order to hook it up to a GPU, but that’s for later. First, I wanted to make a frame to house the DMD. I did not want rounded corners with a large radius, nor did I want the panel to sit behind the full 18mm of ply, so with a bit of handy work and a lot of practise and patience with a router, I was able to come up with this:
In these pictures I have used painters tape to tape the screen to a back board temporarily.
The screen now sits about 2mm “deep” from the front of the panel. The corners have a radius of a few mm and it all looks pretty good I think.
The backbox will house a 27,5″ HD monitor for backglass. I was unhappy with the bezel, so removed it (not in these photo’s) and now this can site very close a panel I have yet to make. Good times!
The cabinet will have rgb undercab led strips (non mx). But for the backbox I wanted to do something different. So, I have cut a 10mm groove in the side panels of the backbox. RGB led strips will go inside, then I will fill it up with clear silicone and put translucent t-molding on top so that the sides of the backbox glow up in various colors.
Fingers crossed that air cargo from China is still happening as I will be needing those led strips soon
Next up: a playfield board to mount the tv to and that can be lifted for easy access to the inside of the cab.
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
First things first: bought two sheets of 18mm ply, made a cutlist and got to work with a circular saw and router:
 
I am not a wood worker at all, so I am always quite intimidated by the rotating blades of the circular saw, especially when cutting those grooves on the side (for playfield trim in this case). I know there are router bits for that kind of stuff, but I was too cheap to get those for just these few grooves. It all worked out well though and I still have all 10 digits
You need to login in order to like this post: click here
