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That sounds awesome!
It might sound stupid, but these are not real chimes with DOF, right? I now nothing about that DOF thing and what is actually available
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Very cool update. A couple really quick things:
- Rubber19 on Tortuga is sticking through the ramp. Should be lower or the ramp should be higher.
- Primitive21, Primitive24, and Primitive25 (bumper caps) are all set too high and are sticking through the ramp.
- RFlogo and LFlogo are scaled unnaturally tall. ysize should be 1.7. Z position should be around 15.
Also, I have a modded ramp for this thing if you’re interested. Needs light emission color set to 0,0,0 to look good, though. Let me know if you’re interested in it.
Is this the version that i finished for fren? Nice to see that it gets some more attention
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Haunted House! Finally! Thanks man, i’ve been waiting for this since i insalled VPX for the first time!
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Sorry for responding late! Will check it tonight! I was busy making primitives and learning to bake rendered textures in Blender.
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I had a nice conversation with HountFreaks about obstructed lights and that they are far from perfect. Some people like it, some people don’t. I was one of the persons who didn’t like them at all.
So i took 32assassin’s Hot Tip table for testing. The table should be up after aproval. A big thank you to 32assassin for letting me use his table!!
I started to fool around with the lights. I used this gameplay video as a model because i think this captured the lighting of a darker table pretty well:
I also used this video to finetune the gameplay.
I work as a CAD-Constructor in the german automobile design industrie. Sometimes i have to do renderings from my work for presentations. I’m far from perfect in this but i do know quite a bit about that lighting / shadow / material stuff. I looked at a couple of tables that were using obstructed lights. The problem was that the shadow area of the shaped light was way to dark because it’s just lights out right next to the full GI light. And the darker the setting of the table is, the worse it gets. Big lights make it worse too. When you look at a rendered picture you can see light reflecting and bouncing all over the place. Shadows are never completely dark on a pinball table and they are not as long. Only if you turn the roomlights completly off you will get those massive shadows.
Just in case someone is interested i have written a little tutorial off what i have done. I have left you guys an example on my modded table on layer 7 to the right outside of the table. It’s a basic set of the 3 lights with an example of the triangle shadow to the center and the one that wraps around the post. The lights are preset to give you a good starting point for an environment emission scale of about 2-3 and the day-night slider about 1 increment from the left. This surely depends on the resources you are useing! Just copy the threepack to your table and experiment with it.
Table grafics / materials are unchanged. Original 32A. Visually i just changed the lights. I used pictures of stripped playfields to position the lightsources.
I am now using 3 lights per GI.
1. A small one with high transmit (around 0,9 – and low intensity of about 3-4 depending on the plastic and personal taste) to show the light bulb through the plastic. Set the hight about 5 units below the plastic hight. If you want to use bigger lights on darker tables you need this to set a smaller highlight.
2. Shaped / obstructed light with the rays being triangles with straight lines on the sides. The tip of the triangle ends in the center of the light source which makes it a lot easier to get a geometrical correct shadow (look at the template in layer 7). Select the obstructed light and ad 3 angled controlpoints next to each other by pressing F10. Pull the middle one to the center of the light. Be carefull. Don’t pull it over the middle because then the lightsource is under a shadow and the light turns off. Zoom in and make shure you stop before the centercross. Just pull the other two control points until the lines touch each side of the rubberpost.
Now we have to make it look good for the DT users (thanks for wakeing me up, HauntFreaks). Wait with this step until you are sure that you have finished the tuning of your lights and shadows because scaling and readjusting the shadow after moving a light will benefit from the triangle shape.After you have finished the lighting add two more angled controlpoints (F10) where the shadowlines make contact to the rubberpost.Pull the controlpoint from the center to the post and make it smooth. Now you can wrap the shadow around the back of the post. You might need a second smooth control point (F11) to make it fit more perfectly around (this is also shown in the example on layer 7). Set this to a hight of about 0.5 because if you set it higher the viewing angle might cause an offset on the shadow.
Transmit has to be set to zero for this light!
3. Fully round GI that is at least 20% bigger (falloff) then the shaped light. Low transmit to light up the plastic the way you like it. Set the hight above the target hight and below the plastics. This light has a transmit value >0 and if you set it to let’s say 20 the targets will be lit from behind halfway up.
The reflections on the ball will also benefit from this hight value because the ball will now be fully lit by the big lightsource. When set low, the ball will only be lit with the reduced transmit value.When you work with it, make sure you have at least two emty layers. Three would be better. Work with one threepack in let’s say layer 4 and use layer 5 and 6 for storeing so you can select single lightsets a bit easier. Chaos will make this a bad trip!
You can play around with the values and balance everything to your likeing. A brighter shaped light will lead to more visible shadows. Also lowering the brightness of the fully round light will make the shadows more visible. Balancing is the key. You can also play around with falloff power to influence the fading of the shadows and for shure you can scale the size of the obstructed light to set the length of the shadows. If the triangles are centered correctly, the rays are not loosing contact to the rubber post when scaling.
It’s important that the fully round light is at least 20% bigger (falloff) then the shaped one so the shadows fade into light. A falloff power of 2,5 is a good starting point for all lights.
If you start to see things from the playfield through the plastics go to the material settings for the plastics and set opacity as high as about 0,998. On this table a opacity of 0,99 let’s me see stuff from under the plastic. This is because with this method there is a lot more light under the plastics.
Baked in shadows might ruin the emersion of a dark table. They are usually rendered from gameroom/pub/arcade lights. Dark tables produce their shadows on a playfield level. Which means roomlights throw plastic shadows onto the playfield, GI lights throw it up to the ceiling. Only things that are lower then the light hight will produce shadows on the playfield. This table’s lighting has a mid to low overall brightness and a low opacity roomlight shadow would be the best choice for this setting. But sadly i don’t have the time and the knowledge to do ad this to the table.
Ok, so much for now. I hope this was of some use for a couple of people. If hope my english was not too bad and you guys did understand what i was trying to say.
Have fun and take care!
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OK guys,
i have smaller issue with this table and i need your help.
When i was updating this table i recognized that as soon as the tortuga pole drops the ball will come out almost imediatly. Fooling around with this i found out that this behaviour changes from session to session or from day to day! In some sessions it stays in forever and in others it just drops out.
The newest version has a slightly smaller, more bouncy exit to keep the ball in longer. Today i played the table and the Tortuga thing was finished in one go almost every time. This is not the outcome i wanted. The Tortuga disc is a really sensible area on the table and moveing rubbers half a millimeter might be already to much.
Could you guys please tell me how the tortuga exit works on your machines? Lighting up all red lights and finishing that bombing event should take something between one and three shots into the disc.
Thanks in advance.
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Javier Bardem will be a beast! Looking forward to see it!
I hope that speed boat missed HauntFreak
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Table is uploaded for Fren!
Changes:
- Parlay now working as it should
- Better and more lighting
- Physic tweaks to get a little more side drains to level out the Parlay shoot again bonus
- Smaller changes throughout the table for a better gameplay experience
Thanks Fren for uploading the Table again and again
Hope you guys enjoy it!
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Hey Fren! I don’t want to look like an idiot trying to upload stuff
I’m not a table author so i will pass it to you. Not a huge fan of calling every tiny change a mod. I’ll send you a PM on friday.
Gesendet von meinem SM-A510F mit Tapatalk
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OK, found it! I will upload it for Fren on Friday with with some enhanced lighting and minor physics changes for more side drains to level out the Parlay shoot again bonus.
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I will have a look into this. I haven’t played the real pin so i will have to look into a game discription first. I had that bad feeling myself. I thought that the Parlay hole was just keeping balls from getting into the ramps.
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Did you change the SAM build to a beta or something?
Did you try and delete anything rom related including the games registry key?
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Final version is uploaded to frenatic!
- Ship / Kraken is working as described in the manual
- Tortuga disk start is more reliable now
- Added a bit of randomness to the Parlay playfield
- Changed a few parmeters to get more side drains (not too much)
- Readjusted the lighting to fit with frenatics material and environment changes
Sadly I don’t have the knowledge and the time to ad the missing lights on the back wall. I could work my self into this but there is only so much time. If someone wants to add those lights please ask frenatic. Or maybe the master himself has some time?
A big thanks to the man frenatic for working hard to bring this table to VPX. Thanks to him I have a new top 5 table!
Hope you guys enjoy it too!
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5 users thanked author for this post.
Found an excellent discription of the table on Pinballnews. Ship can be sunk 4 times. Balls will be blocked by the ship on all shots in the ship lane. The pole will only hold the blocked shots on the first ship. When sinking ships 2-3-4 the ball will not be held anymore. Holy …..! We’ll see what i can do tonight.
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2 users thanked author for this post.
Yes, had to move it a little in front of the ship collision walls so the event gets triggert while the path is blocked.
The ship itself is not colideable. There are separate invisible walls that block the shots.
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Thanks for the quick reply Rich!
Does that mean that the first hit is also stopped by the ship? Because the way i have it now is:
- hit – ball goes through, shot is counted as a hit, sails come down
- hit – ball stoped by the ship, shot is counted as a hit, ball is stopped by the pole for a couple of seconds, then released
- hit – ball stoped by the ship, shot is counted as a hit, ball is stopped by the pole for a couple of seconds, then released, ship starts moving
- hit – ball stoped by the ship, shot is counted as a hit, ball is stopped by the pole for a couple of seconds, then released, ship sunk
- Ball will now pass through the Kraken gate. After the Kraken thing is finished, Ship resets to the start.
Question: Will the ball be stoped on the first hit? If yes, i have to take another look into it tonight.
Frenatic could you hold back the table upload until we got this correct?
Thanks!
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I sent another table update to frenatic. Fixes:
Ship should work now correctly as mentioned. Haven’t played the table IRL. It would be great if RYSr could confirm that the rules are now played as they should. There were four collideable sails. I just made the “Sails Down” collideable.
Start of Tortuga disc should be more reliable now,
added a bit more randomness to the Parlay playfield.You need to login in order to like this post: click here
OK, I placed the trigger sw10 on ramp733 (Surface) and changed the hit hight to 25 for this and for trigger sw11.
The Tortuga disc seems to work more consistant now. I shot in there about 20 times and it worked every time. Can somone test this please?
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Can’t wait to download it tonight and see the material anf environment changes!
The Tortuga drumm fails to start 2 out of 10 times on my cab. Still trying to find the problem. Maybe the hit hight of the trigger?
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