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, done
I want to take on a more difficult table next but I know that I will need help with this one. Hardbody Bally 1987. Looks like an interesting table. I got Very nice PF image from TAB and I found a great upper PF image from a guy selling one on ebay. Any thought of this table from someone who has played it.
1. with an upper PF is it better to make it a wall or a primitive
2. I don’t have many images of a broken down pf so figuring out what is going on under the top pf will be tricky.
3. I need to find someone with the actual table to get dimensions of things.
I watched the TNT video of it and it looks like it will be a very light intensive table with flashers and whatnot. it also has a lot of mirrored pieces so reflections will be important. hopefully I can persuade someone to partner up with me….again…….and this will turn out to be a really nice table
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I have no art assets to offer you but I did want to say good luck and thank you for trying. I have a friend who used to own this pin like 20 years or so ago, he’ll be happy to know a VPX version is eventually coming.
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What I really need is a contact for someone who owns this table. Â I need dimensions and reference pics to line up the two play fields.
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Awesome!  I have been wanting a hardbody/BMX table for a while now! I will keep my eyes open for ya. If I’m not mistaken, BMX is basically the same table.
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you should use both primitive and wall.
you don’t really need a primitive for the UPF, but it will look better especially if the side wood is visible.
and you defiantly need a wall, or you will not be able to raise the flippers, gates or triggers.
hopefully you are able to find someone that owns the real table so that you can identify the missing lights.
Its hard to tell if the lights are actually missing but their is allot unused Lamp IDs
the service manual does not have a layout for any of the lights.
I stripped the VP9 table for you and rebuilt the code, The table was set to run the “Lights by collection”.
If you are adding reflections you more then likely need to use Jps lights.
the VP9 table also had a kicker that destroyed the ball in the plunger lane and another kicker that created a ball in the UPF.
I added ramps so that the ball can roll back down the plunger lane on weak shots.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ag4vxv7yfbm38jh/HardBody%20Strip.vpx?dl=0
see a table you like help me find the resources so that I can finish it
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7qtake9whi5ium2/AAB4K4W78oMVlqSxTzKtGHTHa?dl=0You need to login in order to like this post: click here
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Thanks 32, you are awesome.  I get home from a trip today can’t wait to check it out
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What I can’t figure out, why those white inserts are on the top of the lower PF.  You can’t see them with the upper pf over them
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So back to this table. @Mlager8 and I are gonna team up again to knock this one out. Gonna be a nice table. As for the missing lights, hopefully we can take the same approach as Party Animal, run the light check in the service mode. I am pretty excited to make this one because it looks really interesting. Hopefully if this turns out well then we can get BMX graphics and wont be a hard combo.  After this one, the next table is gonna be “Out of this world”….
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We got some very nice hi res images of the translate for Party Animal today and @Wildman is updating his b2s and making the alternate Dad’s Root Beer backglass so Party Animal will be released within the next couple days. Now that PA is done we have shifted gears to Hardbody. Got the lower PF populated, Upper is started. There will be a lot of detail work on the mirrored walls and flashers, and some work getting the ramps operating. I figured out the hardest part today, getting the two playfields sized and in place. Hopefully by next week it will be playable and the detail work can start.
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there are some funky flipper like mechanism that moves the wall on the left and right of the main flippers to save the ball. We are going to have to build a prim for that. The ramps are all black plastic so they should turn out nice. This build is pretty easy so far because of the quality of pf images we have and the fact that the background on them is a square pattern. Its like having a build in grid to find the EXACT placement of objects. good times
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Oh and BTW, thanks to George over at pinside “Atari_daze” we now have ridiculously nice scans of all plastics. He must have a huge flatbed scanner because the images are great. This is just one example.  Another great build coming
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Table is 95% populated, now to start on the plastics, figuring out the lighting mess, like Party Animal, and wall primitives
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@Bord, or anyone else with blender knowledge, what makes the uv crunch up in the corner like this??
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Best guess is it is using a calculation to weigh the UV and it is overweight in the corner. You can see how everything is pointing in that direction. There is a lot of geometry all distributed from the corners because of that very long face along the straight edge without any vertices. It would be best to subdivide that face a few times to get some geometry along that edge, then triangulate your faces again and try to UV unwrap. Might distribute things a little better.
If you get really stuck just use an orthographic view from overhead and project from view. Should give you a nice 1:1 UV.
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It’s amazing how helpful good resources can be to a build.
For your blender question… .. did you trace the image to make that primitive or build it in VP.. (I trace the image in blender personally, extruding the dots) either way, what I’d do is get a nice top down view of it (its usually 7 on my number pad… load your image into the UV editor then unwrap as project from view.. should give you a near perfect UV map you can move around and place on your image texture
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someone with better knowledge of blender can give you a better answer
I feel like a drunk that falls on the correct answer when I use blender.
I use smart unwrap to create uv maps.  but every single map is created on a 1024×1024 canvas.
the dimensions always warp the original plastic image.
A plastic like the one you have will be warped to the point where  you will need to use PS puppet wrap in order to fit the original image onto your uv texture.
I fix this by adjusting the texture size from 1024×1024Â to something that does not warp the original image.
scroll to 10:00,  Unfortunately its allot of trial and error
attempt #1 on the video resulted in me needing to rotate the image more
I usually have to make multiple adjustments and import multiple images into blender but I eventually get a very accurate size when I match the rotation.
see a table you like help me find the resources so that I can finish it
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7qtake9whi5ium2/AAB4K4W78oMVlqSxTzKtGHTHa?dl=0You need to login in order to like this post: click here
“I feel like a drunk that falls on the correct answer when I use blender.”   I just downloaded/worked with Blender for the first time a few days ago. This almost made me spit my coffee all over my laptop.
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I make the walls in vpx based off of the image, then export them to blender. I am probably doing it the hard way but after this build I am gonna have some time to play with Blender and become an expert……or functional. Thank God for @Mlager8. Matt has already done a lot of work to a pretty good set of PF images to make them even better. Scans need some touchup but everything is here to work with
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<p style=”text-align: left;”>I only use Maya and not blender, but I’m sure the principles are the same. When it comes to uv mapping you can manually unwrap or auto unwrap, which looks like what your getting here. Either way, once the object is unwrapped you should be able to move each shell (each section of unwrapped geometry) and organize however you want inside the uv window. Even if it gets placed in the corner, you can move rotate and scale the shell to a more traditional orientation. You can make the more important parts more prominent (like the face of the apron) and shrink the less important sections (like the walls) and put them off to the side. Then export the uv image, which is essentially just for placement, bring it into an image editor, and fit the texture to the uv image.</p>
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