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Make sure that the com port specified in your file matches what windoes has assigned to the Teensy in the Devices and Printers screen of the Windows Control Panel.
From the looks of your log it isn’t at com3
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Configtool is still up, just use the direct link ….. http://configtool.vpuniverse.com/login.php
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I’ve heard that it is a bit iffy on shielding. So, maybe see if you’ve got something near its cabling that might lead to your troubles. @lynnindenver has a good point. I use the cheapest possible USB hub I could find for my dof, and I remember that I changed also the bios settings for usb. But, what exactly it was, is too long time ago for me to remember. Just try different options and see where it leads.
Probably was turn off the charging circuit for the usb ports in standby. Without it the plunger never gets a chance to reset.
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Could it be the b2s screen res is not correct?
This would be my guess. It’s probably running but located in some un-viewable space on the desktop.
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Underpowered (voltage too low) or PWM Minimum value in DOFconfigtool settings is set too low.
The buzzing is the motor trying to turn but not having enough power or time to get spinning.
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The indicated 2 pin connector and ribbon cable plug into a 2″ x 2″ board on the end of the playfield flasher bar.
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Do it for the cpu upgrade alone and add another 8gb of Ram.
Swap over your other parts and away you go, somewhat future-proofed.
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Here’s a direct link to the manual. It’s for the newest firmware (R3.5) but the mounting instructions are the same across the revisions.
https://www.zebsboards.com/forum/ext/dmzx/fileupload/files/3671fe9144a88b2f568a6402b09006c1.pdf
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Just a quick tip. you have the slider on the plunger incorrectly mounted. Take the rubber tip off and move the block with the tab for engaging the tab on the potentiometer to in front of the c-clip. Then pull back the spring and put the shell back on the block with the c-clip between the back of the block and the inside face of the shell.
You currently don’t have full range of motion and the plunger is at rest behind the 0 point on the axis. This is why you are getting float in the ball and inconsistent nudging.
Build looks great BTW.
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Hi Gwen,
Contactors have a ‘drier’ sound to them, more of a click than clunk if that makes any sense. Solenoids have a more ‘wet’ or ‘rattley’ sound to them. The advantage to contactors is that they can be held on forever due to the low draw nature of their coils while solenoids will heat quickly and burn out their coil in the process, usually taking the controller output driver with them. A nice compromise is to use solenoids for bumpers and slings and contactors for flippers.
Shaker effects are pretty well integrated into every table and can add to the experience and a replay knocker is what it is, I can take them or leave them myself.
12v contactors are stupidly expensive, if you decide to go with them look at 24v ones and get the heaviest load rated ones you can find (600v 12A for example) to ensure that they close with a satisfying thunk.
Your replay knocker will run fine at 24v but make sure the coil is a 23-800 for that voltage.
I sell plug and play shakers but really, with your talents I would recommend just going with a driver board and controller (I also sell a 24 port controller/driver board hybrid if interested) and run it all from that. Shaker intensity is controlled through pwm signals from DOF using the Shaker min and Shaker Max settings and the rest is simple ON/OFF control signals (avoid using pwm signals with contactors and solenoids as they don’t respond well to rapid on/off voltage control and generate way too much flyback for most general purpose diodes to suppress effectively.)
Good luck with it!
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Actually, the tilt function on the V3 plunger I build operates on the same principle as a tilt bob.
You set the threshold level (sensitivity) for tilt using the knob on the bottom of the plunger. That threshold is referenced after the gain settings for nudge (nudge sensitivity) have been set to your preferences using a combination of the gain settings in the game software and the fine tuning adjustment knob on the bottom of the plunger. Since the tilt sensitivity is referenced to the nudging sensitivity it stays in alignment with the forces being exerted on the cab.
When the threshold for tilt is breached by a hard enough nudge, the plunger sends a fully debounced ‘t’ keystroke (actual input signal is debounced and the frequency of the signals is also timer delayed meaning that multiple tilt signals within a set time frame only register the 1st signal) to the computer, the same as a tilt bob would. The plunger doesn’t use anything tilt related (other than setting the tilt keystroke to ‘t’) in the game software to accomplish any of this making it the same as a tilt bob.
I do agree that if you rely on the tilt subroutines in VP for example, the response is far from perfect, that is why I coded the tilt function into the plunger firmware instead.
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Rather timely, just listened to it yesterday afternoon here at the shop ….
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Retail manager – 2yrs
Carpenter – 5yrs
Car audio technician – 7yrs
Computer/Electronics Repair Tech/Manager – 2yrs
Carpenter – 10yrs
Caretaker – 2yrs
Tearful hair-puller, design tech, problem creator, chief cook and bottle washer, production staff, customer service asshole, and general duties for Zebsboards.com – 6yrs
I like bubble baths by candlelight, long walks on the beach, running through puddles in the rain – oops, sorry, wrong site …..
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Most likely the diode failed. About 5% of the time diodes fail to a ‘blown’ or open state, 95% of the time they fail in the ‘short’ or closed state. When this happens no software monitor will change a thing since the diode is actually shorting the circuit and it takes the MosFet along for the ride. Unless your software is controlling the source feed of the voltage to the coil, it will just keep drawing power until something in the load on the short circuit gives up its smoke.
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Sad thing is that I really did enjoy this until last year.
Already changed the site over. Think I’ll try “real pinball mods”.
Too bad… was almost there with my own controller, another month or so on the coding, but I really can only take so many kicks to the groin….
And what the hell, I made a fortune off this right?
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I love this stuff. I bought DIY and can’t DIY and after 22 emails Zeb won’t teamviewer into my cab and set it up.
How far should the 25 dollars I thought I made off the sale go?
And lets not forget that the original email started with “so, after 2 and a half months I can’t get this to work.”
Not here’s what I bought, when I bought it, what I bought, my operating system, my DOF version, how I connected it and what I’ve done with it so far… just fucking fix it because I can’t get it working.
How much do you charge your employer for the work that you do? Probably more than the $1.00 per email that I lost.
Please feel free to return the goddamn thing for a refund on the purchase price (shipping not included). I’m pretty much done with the 40+ hours a week answering questions on top of the 40+ hours a week that I spend assembling, developing and shipping that I’m expected to expend on DIYers to get their $10000 machines up and running on a budget.
Last year my $95000.00 gross amounted to $7500.00 income (no shit) without taking into account the 1000+ hours that I expended on making sure that everyone else was happy but me.
I offer a kit that is guaranteed up and running (and offer full support) for a premium, thankfully you chose the DIY route.
You chose DIY ….. Do It Yourself. You are 1 0f 10 that can’t get it going ( I seriously only made 10 or 11 of them). Sorry if in the world of “don’t hurt my feelings” this upsets you but really, you did put this out there 1st. It was completely plausible that you could have said “I need help” but you chose to go there.
If this costs me sales I may actually come out ahead this year. This may be actually be the kick in the ass that I obviously needed to shut down and go out and get a job at the Home Depot where I belong.
I am so fucking tired of this shit that I really need to go serve soft serve ice cream for awhile … of course I fully realize that there will be some that feel that the soft serve ice cream is too hard for their taste …
Thanks to all of the customers that actually took the time to read instructions, lodge complaints and questions in a timely manner and were willing to make the effort to work with me through the issues, you’ll never understand how much that gratified me and kept me going, it’s sad to see that this has come to what it now is.
Think I’ll just focus on plungers for awhile. If they sell … great. If not, probably even better.
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https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4587918&jsn=548
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@zeblon Sweet. I will be interested in the SS “relay boards. Replacing burned out relays on a Sainsmart board is a MFPITA! Will they be 8-relay boards? I sure hope so.
Yup, they’ll be 8 output.
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Can I please get an understanding of the booster boards? I need to control 10 solenoids. I am looking to replace my two Sainsmart 8-relay boards and I am still confused as to what HW I need.
Thanks
Sorry, I don’t get into the forums as often as I’d like to.
Booster Boards are a replacement for the relay type boards that you have. As Joe stated, they require a controller of some type to create the signal, then they amplify the power capacity beyond what the originating controller can typically handle.
I’m not sure that your USB sainsmart can be controlled externally. I believe the connectors on the board are for Normally Closed, Normally Open and Common (relay output side).
I actually have a solid state version of the Sainsmart board coming out soon, hoping to have the time to tweak the final revision in the coming weeks.
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You could switch the leds through a mosfet on each output. You just need to figure out if it’s the + or – side of the led output that is being switched on and off.
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