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Just a word of advice. If you haven’t ordered that cab yet I’d consider another option. It’s particle board with cam lock assembly and plexiglass for the playfield. Not sure if the design changed since I looked, but there was no easy way to remove the plexi for cleaning the screen, it will swirl up as soon as you start cleaning it and if you have a plunger with nudge capability your are gonna shake that cab apart over time. At least glue it when you assemble if nothing else. Good luck with your build!
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Can’t help you but just wanted to say you did a slamming job on Metallica man! Keep up the great work!
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Glad to see you here man! I had just gotten my cab to the point where I could use it reliably when you surprise dropped this table on us. Needless to say you spoiled me right off the bat! You’re a rock star in my house. I play your attack from mars table literally every day and this one (and Addams family in particular) get alot of play too. Thanks for all the entertainment you’ve brought us!
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I may be having a similar issue to the above post. I load this table and it gets hung up loading. I get the B2S Server error “Object reference not set to an instance of an object”. Once I close the error window it will load and I can play. If I pair an actual b2s file with the table, it will fire right up but I cant use the pup pack because the b2s is now in front of it. I know its obviously B2S related but I am stumped as to a solution. Anybody got a clue for me?
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@outhere Nope that was it! I havent messed with patching roms in awhile as it frustrated the crap out of me lol! I did manage to get ac/dc back then, but couldn’t get others going… Now I know why!
Probably gonna have to play with those patches some more now! Thanks as usual my good man!You need to login in order to like this post: click here
Just wanted to say awesome update! I have a question I’m hoping somebody can answer for me though. I grabbed that 180hc from that link. It works but isn’t colorized on mine. I have 170hc colors working fine. Is there something else I need to do to make this work? I love this table and would like to get it the color going if possible.
On the subject of music tables is there any chance of a rolling stones update? You guys rock! Thanks again!
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My settings only allow for 3840×2160 to be chosen. I would imagine that is likely the standard. Can’t say if the other setting would affect anything as I don’t even have the option to try.
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Apparently I was incorrect. I have my display settings at 100% for both screens. Since originally posting this thread,, I’ve upgraded to an Asus Xg438q monitor and I run a 1080p Samsung TV for the backglass, but I seem to remember having to play with the scale when I used the 43″ Samsung TV for the playfield. I’m pretty sure your editor screen cramping issues have to do with that scaling as well.
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I have the 4k monitor scale set to 125% I believe to even things out. I can take a screenshot of my settings tomorrow sometime.
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Thanks for the quick response! I had another go at it and I managed to figure out what I hadn’t done yet. The missing part was I needed to go into the globalconfigeditor and open the b2sserver xml and assign the cabinet xml. After a quick game of addams family to test, I think I’m good now! Going to bed LOL! Will give it a better test tomorrow after work and see if all is well. Thanks anyway Outhere! You are always right there to help us and I appreciate it! \m/
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This update looks fantastic! I love this table and can’t wait to try it out later! Thanks VPW!
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Noooice! Totally gleaming the cube tonight!
Too old to skate well anymore, but I can still use words like “shred” while I play this!You need to login in order to like this post: click here
Work the vinyl from the center out a half at a time. Transfer paper is extremely helpful if its not already installed on the front face. Clean the surface really well and use a tack rag if you got one kicking around to get leftover debris. I usually split the back adhesive backing down the middle with a blade then you would line it up to where you like it. Take some masking tape and tape one side down while holding it where you want it. The other half that isn’t taped, fold it to expose the cut made in the backing earlier and gently work the graphic a little at a time with a credit card or something similar. If there is no transfer paper or I’m worried about scratching the vinyl I use a lint free towel folded over the top of the tool. Again work from the center out.
A more primitive method is to install it wet, but that will attract more dust. Use a tiny drop of dawn soap in a spray bottle. Don’t use too much or it will slide while you install it if you are rough with it. The good side of that is if you mess up the wet graphic can be peeled back (again at the expense of possibly attracting dust). If you do it this way be careful to give it time dry dry before manhandling it. I use a heat gun to help accelerate the process. If you do that make sure that gun stays moving or you can damage the graphic!
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I’m going to join the chorus and say invest in the 4k. If you are a fan, then you will want it eventually. I did 1080 at first because of lag on 4k, but it seems as soon as I got that up and running “fast flips” came around and solved the issue. So I bought a 4k TV. The difference in resolution was night and day. So worth it! Then I found the asus xg438q that does 120hz so I bought that next! Even better still! See a pattern here? LOL! I have enough parts to build 2 more cabs now!
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Thanks for the info. That makes my job much easier!
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Awesome. So you’re saying if I wire from the top down that I need to point the arrows down correct?
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Can’t you just get a smart power strip? Im pretty sure they have outlets that turn off when your main device is off.
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I have zebs lightbar, shaker, solenoid driver board with watchdog timer. Id still probably buy the ez kits again even though I understand the drivers board, etc now. I figure its spreading the load worst case scenario. Id probably wire my own solenoids though, but thats just me.
I haven’t actually used the solenoids yet but I love the lightbar and shaker. I ran my front cab buttons off of his extra lines of the shaker. Both were out of the box and working inside a few minutes. Its hard to beat that convenience when there is so much to do elsewhere.
I have oaksmicro led drivers and his fuse block, which is also a work in progress. I was super happy to find them as I wasn’t looking forward to soldering and testing a teensy board I had no idea how to use. The oaks even has an led test button, which is what sold it for me.
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If you have the plunger kit installed in the standard spot you will want the apron because your monitor will hit otherwise
My buddy and I bought 2 empty Virtuapin shells and got a break on the price buying 2 at once. I’m perfectly capable of building my own, but by the time I factored materials, time, and labor, it just wasn’t worth the hassle trying to build in between 60 hr work weeks. I’m spending that extra effort on everything going on inside and I have since modified the cab with a few of my own personal touches. I plan to share my build in the near future once things calm down a bit around here.
As said already, they cost $, but they are built like tanks and we are quite happy with them. I mean its a william cab clone so what’s not to like. I can certainly vouch for VP if you are worried about quality. You can waste so much time if your lumber starts to twist or warp as you build. I know I have to go through stacks of lumber at the store to find one piece I’m happy with.
Im actually planning to share my build here in the near future once I get some time to type it all out.
Also of you don’t get fully trimmed ask for the wiring harness (I believe you can buy just the harness) if you want to save some hassle there.
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I’d be interested to know if that 600w woofer messes with your nudge. I love a good bass hit but 600w is gonna rattle your windows. I could be wrong but that kind of power may make your ball start jumping around during gameplay. Ill be watching your progress. Have fun!
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